Hi SOI Folks: ALONG with rivet questions.... I took a quick look in the bathroom of our winterized 2007, 16 ft. Scamp, and found water on the floor (oops, forgot to close the window!!!) No problem, I thought, I’ll just pump it out. Well, turned the switch on.....nothing. Pump not working. The sink pump worked fine, so I don’t think it’s an electrical box problem. The pump has always worked slowly, but we cleaned out the trap last summer, and haven’t showered in it yet. SO we think it’s a fuse problem.
Hello! Has anyone completely rewired the interior electrical for a 1975 13’ Scamp? We are looking to add outlets and light fixtures and things like that. We are totally new to owning a camper, let alone a Scamp, but we are excited to remodel our interior as it definitely needs some TLC! Any tips or advice on such a venture?
Just wondering if anyone knows a source for a replacement main 30 amp breaker for a 2015 Scamp? Looks like it is part of a dual breaker that is 30 on one side and 15 amps on the other. Seems a bit specialized. Some googling and amazoning did not really show much. A generic YouTube RV video showed Square D breakers that look about right. Of course, I will just call Scamp at some point but that particular breaker is not listed on their website. Thanks.
Hi! Forgive if this has been asked before on these forums, but the Search box seems to be broken, and never returns any results...?
All of the exterior lights on my 2018 Scamp allow water to leak in, the gaskets seem to be installed OK, but they are made from some foam material (is it really closed cell?) Do you have this problem and are there good solutions?
When hauling my trailer to have some work done on it, the door flew open. Unfortunately, the grill had some loose and flew out the door. By the time I got back to where it was, traffic had squashed it flat. Anybody have any ideas how to get another one. I'm not seeing that Suburban makes the same model heater anymore. It's a Dynatrail NT 12MEF heater.
To me it looks like my Scamp 13' rides a little low but i have heard that they are supposed to look low. I would like it to be higher but don't want to spend the money on a new axle if it is not necessary. Are there any other options to lift it up a little without changing the axle. Also, what are tell tale signs that I do need a new axle?
Let me know if pictures are needed and I can post some.
Because I'll be hauling our recently purchased 13' Scamp with both our Ridgeline and Jeep, I needed electric brakes for the Scamp, and a controller, associated wiring and a 7 way/4 way connector for the Jeep. With one call to eTrailer (Shawn B.) all the items I needed to complete this task were soon on the way.
We have a new Scamp 13 (delivered in December 2018). The rear side windows have the center louvres. Both windows collect water in the section toward the front of the trailer. The drain/weep holes are clear, and the center and rear window segments don't accumulate any water. The caulking around the edge of the windows looks good. It's not obvious how water is coming in or how it ends up in the "track". My questions: where might it be coming from, and how do I figure it out?
I’m new to the forum but am in need of some advice. I just bought a 1996 13 and the rear dinette floor needs to be replaced. I’ve read every thread on this site and tore into it tonight!
Hey y'all. I'm having an issue with my trailer electric system. It started as the lights dimming while we were camping, well most of them. Then the fridge started blinking. The control panel (Dometic Classic 2010) "auto, gas/AC" lights started blinking and the fridge lost cooling. We ended up using a cooler and ice for the trip. A few things of note. When I looked at the trailer electric control box connections under the street side dinette the ground was disconnected. Also, the AC and florescent light above the stove both worked throughout th