Have a 2005 13' Scamp. Need to replace converter. Original 20A American unit does not appear to be available. Can I replace just the rectifier part of the rectifier / DC fuses / AC breakers assembly or do I need to replace the complete 5 DC fuse / 2 AC breaker / converter box? Sources of suitable converter components or complete assembly are requested. Thank you.
We picked up our 16 in Backus this spring. In climbing underneath I found the Lippert Axle sticker and see I have the easy (superlube) hubs. I found the Lippert axle owners manual on-line (Scamp provided none). The owners manual goes over major bearing and electric brake replacement items but never once mentions the super lube feature nor how to properly add the correct amount of grease. (I have a grease gun for other purposes but have never had to grease wheel bearings)
This may be a ridiculous question but I'm having a hard time finding a clear answer.
My Scamp has a 10-3 30 amp cord, and I'm replacing the American Model CS 2000XL 20 amp output converter, which seems to be dead.
Is it safe to get a higher amp output converter, like this PD-4045, or does the amp rating of the converter need to be the same or lower than the cord?
Our first camping season is coming to a close here in Illinois and my attention turns to how best to protect our Scamp for the winter. The Scamp owners manual talks about taking the battery indoors for the winter. That seems at odds with the newer converter with a built in charge guard wizard. In addition if the battery (having monitored water levels) holds a charge it should be in no more danger of freezing than my car battery.
On a recent trip with my '99 16-footer, I couldn't get the propane refrigerator to light. I did everything I've done before - turn on the gas, light a stovetop burner, set gas control on fridge to high, hold down switch, click ignitor. What I got was an audible pop at the burner. If I held the switch down longer before clicking the ignitor, I got a bigger pop. But it wouldn't stay lit. I have two propane tanks, and I tried switching tanks, still same problem. The stove burners work fine, so I doubt a supply problem.
Just purchased my first scamp which has become a project. The escape hatch is leaking and the previous owner had so much caulk along the edges of the hatch it looked more like a wedding cake than an escape hatch. I've stripped the caulk off with plans of popping the rivets and resealing with butyl tape. Today I came across a product called enternabond which is a tape that goes on the outside edge which would not require rivet replacement. Does anyone have experience with this product. Really would prefer not to pop rivets for fear of damaging the escape hatch.
I`m a newbie here,bought an 83-13 to redo.My ? is has anyone removed the belly band,and got it back on without major problems ?
I`m pretty much redoing the entire trailer,the PO just loved silicone,and put it everywhere,I`m painting the trailer red with black accents [the belly band],knowing paint won`t stick to silicone ,it seems easier to remove and clean,than to try to dig it out.
This would also allow me to seal the 2 halves ,just in case it might be leaking there.
I have a crank out window (bathroom/shower) that has a very minor leak. As far as I can tell it has no weep hole to clean so I am thinking of replacing the butyl tape. Where are people buying their tape from? Here is what I was thinking of using.
Has anyone experienced mold on the 'rat fur' interior? If so, was it checked and/or of the dangerous type? How should the mold be removed? How can it be checked for type? Thanks, Dave
The retractable Plisse screen door has an inside and outside channel the door handle is fastened into. I had a problem where the inside handle would slide down the track to the floor. I had to use a piece of electrical tape to hold up the handle so it could be used.
In looking at the outside handle it looked like it had a fastener of some type holding the handle in place but no such fastener on the inside.
