Ok, we took our 2000 16' Standard out for a maiden-ish voyage for 6 days. While we were out we had the pleasure of 3 areas for personal growth and development. We would appreciate any insight you might be able to give.
I posted this on the Fiberglass RV forum as well, my apologies in advance. I haven't yet figured out who responds to what, where.
I'm prepping our 2017 Scamp 16 with front bath for a trip from St Paul to Seattle, leaving next week. Daughter had our first grandchild on April 30, grandma really wants to see the baby. We're taking all sorts of precautions en route, so as long as highways are open, we should be fine.
Ok, with ELongest's patient help, I've managed to get the rear floor on my 16' Standard replaced. Now I'm fixing all the things I broke in the process. I had to cut the PEX in three places to get the floor in, and I've been having fits getting it back together. I bought a crimping tool, a cutter, etc. and started the repairs. I'm having fits getting the plastic fittings that are extant on the trailer into the 1/2" PEX tubing. I'd rather not replace the run to the water pump because the fittings don't work, but can if I have to. I also can't get the
About to grease the bearings for the first time. I've never done this before (newbie!), so any and all tips would be greatly appreciated. We have Lippert according to the cap.
I saw Scamp's video saying to use a jack and not the levelers, and know from other videos to chock the opposite tire.
Hello, I'm in the process of renovating our 'new' 16' standard, and I thought I would ask before trying to figure it out myself. I've seen the Pellandent recommendation for replacement seals and such, but I'm unsure on what exactly I need to order. Has anyone done this and saved their measurements/email invoices as far as how many feet of which items I'll need? specifically which channels and beads. I am planning on doing the large rear, two medium sides and two small sides. I cleared the weep holes and there's still a non-trivial amount of leakage. I wil
Bought the cover with the scamp from factory. Cover after 10 months was in this shape. I did not tear it I got up on a ladder to lift it over the A/C and this is how it was. The entire white section of the cover completely rots in 1 winter. I tried to tear a white piece very far from this and it tore like paper. So bad. Still under warranty, havent called yet but they need to stop selling these things
I am in the process of pulling the side windows in my scamp to install new butyl tape. I have removed the screws and the clamp ring from the inside of the first window (above the sink) but am having a difficult time removing the window itself. It still feels firmly attached. I have tried to tap out the window from inside but it isn't budging. I don't know if there are other screws or if the old butyl tape would hold the window that firmly in place. Has anyone done this that could offer any guidance?
The sink hand pump in my 2010 Scamp 13 has developed a small leak from where the handle goes into the body.
When taking scamp out of storage I found some antifreeze had leaked out on to the counter. Also when I pumped fresh water thru the pipes to get the antifreeze out I noticed some small pieces or runner or plastic (desegregation of o-ring or grommet?) flushing out with the water.
Anyone know if this pump is able be rebuilt with some new seals?
When ever I tow with 12 volt - refer, it draws my battery. If I turn off the 12 volt/refer completely my scamp battery charges right up to 13 volts, but as soon as I turn on the refer while towing or even not towning it drains down the battery quick. Infact if I leave my car hooked up it will eventually draw down the car battery. So all my fellow campers tell me to run the refer on propane when driving. I have heard that wont work either as the wind will blow it out.
