If my travel requires more than one days travel, I don't use my 12V or Propane, I use an Ice Chest... For me, it's less to worry about when it comes to the battery or propane and way cheaper... If my days travel is only one day, I then would consider using the 12 volt system... Everyone is different...
Scott, I guess I am a bit confused by your last post? I figured if you are driving, the fridge can be powered by the 12v which is being recharged by the TV electrical system, no matter if you are driving one day or 10.
I am wondering about the 12v trailer battery being used to power the fridge and the equation of recharging vs discharging. ie . if the system can use more charge from the 12v deep cell battery than can be re supplied by the TV electrical system?
I also wonder if it is going to rain in the next 2 days?
Life is short , and there are so many questions to be answered!
Thanks for your input.
Mark
Thanks for making us feel so welcome.
If you have a choice, Please buy, "Made in America"
It will really depend on your tow vehicle setup as to whether you'll be able to run 12v fridge while traveling, most are not able to. You have to have a real beefy charge line with preferably an 8ga line and a beefed up alternator.
I've always run on propane when traveling, but now with the 160w solar on the roof and the tow vehicle both charging, I could probably run on 12v if it is a sunny day. Prior to this current setup, running the fridge on 12v would have drained my battery pretty quickly.
mk evenson, As for being hookup to the 12V system, driving and charging at the same time is one thing but what happens when your parked at a REST AREA (for OVERNIGHT parking)? There's no more charging going on and your Fridge eats up gobs of 12vdc energy from your battery (remembering you didn't have propane as an option). You could wake up to a dead battery either on your camper or worse, both camper and Tow Vehicle and you really don't want that. This is why I use a plain old Ice Chest on a trip that will be longer than a days trip. It's cheap and I don't have to be concerned about using up my battery or propane.
On the other hand, if my destination is less than a days trip, using the 12v system (assuming your charging circuit can handle running the 12vdc fridge) would hopefully keep the battery charged up (even stopping for bathroom breaks) until my final destination (THAT SAME DAY) and then hooking up at the camp ground. (this part I will experience someday)
If you don’t have any of these type of experiences, sometimes it’s best to simply try different things just like OTHERS have mentioned and find out for yourself. What works for one person might not work as well for someone else. Basically, this is a perfect example of “One Size Does Not Fit All”
For me, it’s easier to understand what’s going on when you are actually using these options (many things will start making sense after experiencing it first hand)… "Experience is your BEST teacher"
Below are some things I’ve come up with as to monitoring/controlling my electrical systems. Others have done things like this on different scales. Please don’t get too focused on the pictures, its just an example of ways to watch what is going on with your electrical system in the camper.
FYI: This is for those that Boondoggle and are concerned about Battery voltage/current drains via components in your camper…
I've recently found that those campers with PowerConverters PD9130 and has the Charge Wizard (like I do) indicates that when the Battery only (AC is DISCONNECTED) is connected (in the system), it seems to be powering up some circuits in the converter.
My light on the Charge Wizard continually flashes as if the converter was on and charging. But of course that can't be happening since I didn't have the AC connected. So with that, it appears to be another hole (in the boat) in the DC system if you are concerned about DC current leaks...
This of course might be something to checkout for those that boondoggle...
Possible Solution: I've recently bought a Battery Cutout switch that I'm considering hooking up between the Power Converter and the +DC output wire to the Buss-Bar of the Breaker Panel.
athearn2, I did not mean to say that YOU said AC was not a good power source! I have read several posts that mention that the Dometic fridge works best on Propane. Looking back to some of those posts just now, I see that some / most were several years old. When I 1st read those posts, I probably did not associate the age of the fridge with the statements.
Mark
Thanks for making us feel so welcome.
If you have a choice, Please buy, "Made in America"
The 1.9 cu ft in our 2006 works equally well on AC, 12v, and propane. But Greg is absolutely right about the power draw (~12amps) on 12v. Most wiring from tow vehicles can't run the fridge and keep the trailer battery charged. Get the fridge cold on AC (or propane). It will stay cold for 2 or 3 hours without a problem. If you're traveling further, stop and turn it on (12v) then off again 2 or 3 hours later. Use propane when dry camping - don't leave the 12v turned on when the tv is stopped. That works for us to keep the beer cold and the battery charged.
I operate my refrigerator on Propane, I only use the 120 volts as a backup power source (I have tested 120 v to confirm operation).
Here is my reasoning...
First, I live in Florida, the temperatures can be in the mid 80's any day of the year, in the Summer the temps are in the high 80's to the mid 90's. Consequently, I have to do everything I can do to make sure my fridge is operating as efficiently as possible.
Why I don't trust 120 volt fridge operation: Operating your fridge on 120 volts utilizes an electric heating element, similar to what you would find in the bottom of an electric oven or on the bottom of a dishwasher. When this heating element is brand new, it will be operating at it's peak heat output. From there, the heat output will slowly drop as the element ages. While ageing of the element is a factor, it is only part of the reason I don't trust the 120 volt refrigerator operation.
The biggest reason I don't trust 120 volt operation is because campgrounds tend to have old electrical systems and on a hot day, with all the big coaches and 5th wheels running two Air Conditioners, the 120 voltage can drop and the electric element will produce less heat at the exact time you need the maximum heat (from your element) for your refrigerator to keep cold.
When operating on Propane the flame temperature is constant and it is not effected by other campers and their Air Conditioning use. Additionally, the Propane flame is hotter than the Electric element and that is why many campers say that their fridge operates better on Propane than it does on 120 Volts.
Just as a side note: Many of the replacement electric elements do not get as hot as they should, so, you may not be able to get the cooling performance you once had, due to the lower temperature of the replacement element.
Also, as a side note: I installed two Valtera Vent Fans (with thermostats) to improve air flow over my refrigerator coils/fins. I installed on/off switches on both so I can control their operation to conserve energy while Boondocking. These Vent Fans are one of the biggest reasons my fridge stays cold on Hot, Sunny, Florida days. The other reason is I am always using Propane.
PS: I also run my fridge on Propane while traveling, basically, I turn my fridge on the day before our trip and I don't turn it off until after we unload the camper.
PPS: in order to assist the Fridge to maintain temperature, I place two frozen water bottles in the fridge compartment and two in the freezer, then, I swap the bottles between the freezer and fridge once a day. Remember, I live in Florida, so, I have to use every trick in the book to maintain a cold refrigerator.
PPPS: I also ensure that everything I place in the refrigerator is already cold to minimize the heat load on the fridge.
PPPPS: These are my BEST tips for keeping a cold RV Fridge.
Thank you all for giving me a great lesson! I now understand to a much greater degree the subject at hand in this post. I also DO REALIZE that I will learn much more , 1st hand, when I get into my Scamp!
Spring is approaching, at least here on the west coast, and many will be " Happily Scamping." Looking forward to visiting some at Scamp Far West !
Mark
Thanks for making us feel so welcome.
If you have a choice, Please buy, "Made in America"
If my travel requires more than one days travel, I don't use my 12V or Propane, I use an Ice Chest... For me, it's less to worry about when it comes to the battery or propane and way cheaper... If my days travel is only one day, I then would consider using the 12 volt system... Everyone is different...
Scott, I guess I am a bit confused by your last post? I figured if you are driving, the fridge can be powered by the 12v which is being recharged by the TV electrical system, no matter if you are driving one day or 10.
I am wondering about the 12v trailer battery being used to power the fridge and the equation of recharging vs discharging. ie . if the system can use more charge from the 12v deep cell battery than can be re supplied by the TV electrical system?
I also wonder if it is going to rain in the next 2 days?
Life is short , and there are so many questions to be answered!
Thanks for your input.
Mark
Thanks for making us feel so welcome.
If you have a choice, Please buy, "Made in America"
Mark,
It will really depend on your tow vehicle setup as to whether you'll be able to run 12v fridge while traveling, most are not able to. You have to have a real beefy charge line with preferably an 8ga line and a beefed up alternator.
I've always run on propane when traveling, but now with the 160w solar on the roof and the tow vehicle both charging, I could probably run on 12v if it is a sunny day. Prior to this current setup, running the fridge on 12v would have drained my battery pretty quickly.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
mk evenson, As for being hookup to the 12V system, driving and charging at the same time is one thing but what happens when your parked at a REST AREA (for OVERNIGHT parking)? There's no more charging going on and your Fridge eats up gobs of 12vdc energy from your battery (remembering you didn't have propane as an option). You could wake up to a dead battery either on your camper or worse, both camper and Tow Vehicle and you really don't want that. This is why I use a plain old Ice Chest on a trip that will be longer than a days trip. It's cheap and I don't have to be concerned about using up my battery or propane.
On the other hand, if my destination is less than a days trip, using the 12v system (assuming your charging circuit can handle running the 12vdc fridge) would hopefully keep the battery charged up (even stopping for bathroom breaks) until my final destination (THAT SAME DAY) and then hooking up at the camp ground. (this part I will experience someday)
If you don’t have any of these type of experiences, sometimes it’s best to simply try different things just like OTHERS have mentioned and find out for yourself. What works for one person might not work as well for someone else. Basically, this is a perfect example of “One Size Does Not Fit All”
For me, it’s easier to understand what’s going on when you are actually using these options (many things will start making sense after experiencing it first hand)… "Experience is your BEST teacher"
Below are some things I’ve come up with as to monitoring/controlling my electrical systems. Others have done things like this on different scales. Please don’t get too focused on the pictures, its just an example of ways to watch what is going on with your electrical system in the camper.
Scott: Very nice monitoring system !!
I think it is Smart to have switches on everything so you minimize the "Parasitic" loads placed on your battery.
I also like that you have everything in one place !
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
thanks ManWithaVan...
FYI: This is for those that Boondoggle and are concerned about Battery voltage/current drains via components in your camper…
I've recently found that those campers with PowerConverters PD9130 and has the Charge Wizard (like I do) indicates that when the Battery only (AC is DISCONNECTED) is connected (in the system), it seems to be powering up some circuits in the converter.
My light on the Charge Wizard continually flashes as if the converter was on and charging. But of course that can't be happening since I didn't have the AC connected. So with that, it appears to be another hole (in the boat) in the DC system if you are concerned about DC current leaks...
This of course might be something to checkout for those that boondoggle...
Possible Solution: I've recently bought a Battery Cutout switch that I'm considering hooking up between the Power Converter and the +DC output wire to the Buss-Bar of the Breaker Panel.
athearn2, I did not mean to say that YOU said AC was not a good power source! I have read several posts that mention that the Dometic fridge works best on Propane. Looking back to some of those posts just now, I see that some / most were several years old. When I 1st read those posts, I probably did not associate the age of the fridge with the statements.
Mark
Thanks for making us feel so welcome.
If you have a choice, Please buy, "Made in America"
The 1.9 cu ft in our 2006 works equally well on AC, 12v, and propane. But Greg is absolutely right about the power draw (~12amps) on 12v. Most wiring from tow vehicles can't run the fridge and keep the trailer battery charged. Get the fridge cold on AC (or propane). It will stay cold for 2 or 3 hours without a problem. If you're traveling further, stop and turn it on (12v) then off again 2 or 3 hours later. Use propane when dry camping - don't leave the 12v turned on when the tv is stopped. That works for us to keep the beer cold and the battery charged.
Lynn and Pam
I operate my refrigerator on Propane, I only use the 120 volts as a backup power source (I have tested 120 v to confirm operation).
Here is my reasoning...
First, I live in Florida, the temperatures can be in the mid 80's any day of the year, in the Summer the temps are in the high 80's to the mid 90's. Consequently, I have to do everything I can do to make sure my fridge is operating as efficiently as possible.
Why I don't trust 120 volt fridge operation: Operating your fridge on 120 volts utilizes an electric heating element, similar to what you would find in the bottom of an electric oven or on the bottom of a dishwasher. When this heating element is brand new, it will be operating at it's peak heat output. From there, the heat output will slowly drop as the element ages. While ageing of the element is a factor, it is only part of the reason I don't trust the 120 volt refrigerator operation.
The biggest reason I don't trust 120 volt operation is because campgrounds tend to have old electrical systems and on a hot day, with all the big coaches and 5th wheels running two Air Conditioners, the 120 voltage can drop and the electric element will produce less heat at the exact time you need the maximum heat (from your element) for your refrigerator to keep cold.
When operating on Propane the flame temperature is constant and it is not effected by other campers and their Air Conditioning use. Additionally, the Propane flame is hotter than the Electric element and that is why many campers say that their fridge operates better on Propane than it does on 120 Volts.
Just as a side note: Many of the replacement electric elements do not get as hot as they should, so, you may not be able to get the cooling performance you once had, due to the lower temperature of the replacement element.
Also, as a side note: I installed two Valtera Vent Fans (with thermostats) to improve air flow over my refrigerator coils/fins. I installed on/off switches on both so I can control their operation to conserve energy while Boondocking. These Vent Fans are one of the biggest reasons my fridge stays cold on Hot, Sunny, Florida days. The other reason is I am always using Propane.
PS: I also run my fridge on Propane while traveling, basically, I turn my fridge on the day before our trip and I don't turn it off until after we unload the camper.
PPS: in order to assist the Fridge to maintain temperature, I place two frozen water bottles in the fridge compartment and two in the freezer, then, I swap the bottles between the freezer and fridge once a day. Remember, I live in Florida, so, I have to use every trick in the book to maintain a cold refrigerator.
PPPS: I also ensure that everything I place in the refrigerator is already cold to minimize the heat load on the fridge.
PPPPS: These are my BEST tips for keeping a cold RV Fridge.
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
Thank you all for giving me a great lesson! I now understand to a much greater degree the subject at hand in this post. I also DO REALIZE that I will learn much more , 1st hand, when I get into my Scamp!
Spring is approaching, at least here on the west coast, and many will be " Happily Scamping." Looking forward to visiting some at Scamp Far West !
Mark
Thanks for making us feel so welcome.
If you have a choice, Please buy, "Made in America"
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