i just went camping this weekend and my pilot light won't stay lit either. granted mine is a 1987 so i might need to get a new shield and clean that area up a little. any suggestions?
Normally, that is a clogged orifice or propane line.
The orifice cleanout/maintenance should be an annual thing on the list, but you need to look through videos etc on the procedure as the orifice can be damaged if done incorrectly.
Always possible that it is the regulator which should be checked with a manometer each season for proper setting.
sorry i didn't clarify. it stays lit fine when it's stationary. but when i start driving that's when it goes out somewhere during the journey. i think that makes it a different issue, no?
It's my speculation that Scamp says not to run the refrigerator on the highway because they do not want to deal with the problem of the flame blowing out. What side is yours on? Mine is on the right side and stays lit even when meeting others on a two lane road.
i have a 1987, so it could be various parts/shields/etc are worn and need replaced. If i can't run it on propane, how will i keep my food cold on an 8 hour drive? using 12v mode? honestly i've never tried that, only 120V and propane for traveling.
I always turn the LP system off at the tank when traveling! Having a charged system is just one more danger it there is an accident.
the LP lines could easily be broken, especially in 40 year old Scamps like mine. I like to play safe. I am installing a 7 pin plug to my car and Scamp so I can run the fridge on 12 volts when in transit. I will have a disconnect switch to turn off the car connection when not traveling, so not to drain the car battery.
I bought a 220 watt solar panel, and by theory it should be enough 12 volts to operate the fridge, without using the battery. I haven't been able to try it yet.
The pipe that feeds the water heater on my 2004 Scamp had a barely noticeable kink in it, probably since it was built. Copper gets hard with age and any places where it was stressed too much, it may get brittle and break. I discovered this tiny leak by paying attention to faint smell of gas (actually the stuff they mix in to help spot any leaks). I used plumber's putty to temporarily seal the leak, by wrapping it around the pipe. When we got home from that trip last year, I took a close look at it and then replaced the section of pipe, from a "T" in the main line, to the water heater. I made sure I used a pipe bending tool to avoid kinks and that the section replaced fit perfectly without stressing it. (I added a loop in there to make it easier). It was one of those little things that are actually quite important.
My fridge burner wouldn't stay lit when I first got my Scamp. Two issues: water had collected in the line. I had to take all the lines off, and blow them out with compressed air. And two: there was a spider egg case in the burner housing which made the flame undependable. I again used compressed air to clean out the burner housing, and took the jet out, and blew it out too. Never put any probe into jet (orface). It is easy to damage. My 40 year frige works just fine.
Don't want to start into the propane when traveling arguments that go on and on. Won't convince anyone on either side of the issue, so just read past threads and go with what ur comfortable with either way.
It is definitely a different issue if propane is not staying lit while traveling. That is usually a wind issue blowing it out. However, it could also be low flow from the regulator. Manometer check should be routinely done as maintenance for correct regulator settings, regardless. Your fridge will cool better if regulator is set correctly.
The blowing out issue, some folks have fashioned aluminum wind screens around the burner area which resolved it.
i just went camping this weekend and my pilot light won't stay lit either. granted mine is a 1987 so i might need to get a new shield and clean that area up a little. any suggestions?
1987 Scamp 16
Normally, that is a clogged orifice or propane line.
The orifice cleanout/maintenance should be an annual thing on the list, but you need to look through videos etc on the procedure as the orifice can be damaged if done incorrectly.
Always possible that it is the regulator which should be checked with a manometer each season for proper setting.
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sorry i didn't clarify. it stays lit fine when it's stationary. but when i start driving that's when it goes out somewhere during the journey. i think that makes it a different issue, no?
1987 Scamp 16
It's my speculation that Scamp says not to run the refrigerator on the highway because they do not want to deal with the problem of the flame blowing out. What side is yours on? Mine is on the right side and stays lit even when meeting others on a two lane road.
.
i have a 1987, so it could be various parts/shields/etc are worn and need replaced. If i can't run it on propane, how will i keep my food cold on an 8 hour drive? using 12v mode? honestly i've never tried that, only 120V and propane for traveling.
1987 Scamp 16
I always turn the LP system off at the tank when traveling! Having a charged system is just one more danger it there is an accident.
the LP lines could easily be broken, especially in 40 year old Scamps like mine. I like to play safe. I am installing a 7 pin plug to my car and Scamp so I can run the fridge on 12 volts when in transit. I will have a disconnect switch to turn off the car connection when not traveling, so not to drain the car battery.
I bought a 220 watt solar panel, and by theory it should be enough 12 volts to operate the fridge, without using the battery. I haven't been able to try it yet.
Copper pipes can be broken, is right.
The pipe that feeds the water heater on my 2004 Scamp had a barely noticeable kink in it, probably since it was built. Copper gets hard with age and any places where it was stressed too much, it may get brittle and break. I discovered this tiny leak by paying attention to faint smell of gas (actually the stuff they mix in to help spot any leaks). I used plumber's putty to temporarily seal the leak, by wrapping it around the pipe. When we got home from that trip last year, I took a close look at it and then replaced the section of pipe, from a "T" in the main line, to the water heater. I made sure I used a pipe bending tool to avoid kinks and that the section replaced fit perfectly without stressing it. (I added a loop in there to make it easier). It was one of those little things that are actually quite important.
-Paul
2004 Scamp 19 Deluxe,
2021 Tacoma, Double Cab, 6 cyl. 4WD
Colorado
My fridge burner wouldn't stay lit when I first got my Scamp. Two issues: water had collected in the line. I had to take all the lines off, and blow them out with compressed air. And two: there was a spider egg case in the burner housing which made the flame undependable. I again used compressed air to clean out the burner housing, and took the jet out, and blew it out too. Never put any probe into jet (orface). It is easy to damage. My 40 year frige works just fine.
Don't want to start into the propane when traveling arguments that go on and on. Won't convince anyone on either side of the issue, so just read past threads and go with what ur comfortable with either way.
It is definitely a different issue if propane is not staying lit while traveling. That is usually a wind issue blowing it out. However, it could also be low flow from the regulator. Manometer check should be routinely done as maintenance for correct regulator settings, regardless. Your fridge will cool better if regulator is set correctly.
The blowing out issue, some folks have fashioned aluminum wind screens around the burner area which resolved it.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
i like the aluminum idea, thank you. i don't own a manometer, is that something i can rent? or are they cheap?
1987 Scamp 16
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