This may be a better look at it .. there is some lift on the front end of the Pilot & and the hithc is a bit too high for the Scamp causing it to dip in the back.
Trying to figure out if just changing out the ball hitch drop will level both out -- or will it better to go with a WD/Swag Control attachment - if so trying to find a model that is easy to use and not overkill. Scamp will be about 2,000 full - but wil be driving over the mountains with it empty so weight will be about 1,600 lb.
I have a 2005 Pilot and a 2009 Scamp 16 SD which I have been using since it was new in 2009. There are three mods. to your setup that I think would make a better towing experience for you. I would recommend putting air bags on your rear coil springs to have adjustability in increasing your TV's load carrying ability, adjusting your towing ball height, and a friction type sway bar. The TV and the trailer need to be parallel to the the road surface when towing down the road. The back of the Pilot is a catch all for extra gear which adds extra weight to the rear of the Pilot. This is where the air bag adjustability comes in to make the TV parallel to the road again.
Really don't think you need a WDH or sway for a 13 Scamp. As Manwithavan says above measure the front and rear wheel well before and after hitching and if it lifts/drops more than 1" then consider it. You definitely need the larger drop to get the nose of the Scamp down first.
I'm not going to try and diagnose your towing set up from a few photos, but I do suspect that Greg is right about the WDH, and the suggestion to measure the tugs wheel well heights before and after hitching up (with tug and trailer normally loaded for camping) is a good one.
Assuming all you (might) need is sway control, you can get that for under $43 plus the cost of a little welding. This is going on my Scamp 16 before my spring trip to Florida:
Found this option at Fleet Farm while I was searching for a 6" hitch to level out scamp to the pilot. Thought it would help me keep it level not matter the weight changes on the trip since it can adjust to the 1/2 inch variance as needed. Camping World recommended this sway bar which was on sale for $35 last week. If it looks good, figure can start looking for locking pins for the adjustable hitch.
One issue with these type hitches is that they all have some play in them (caused by loose and/or worn pins) which can result in "Chucking" and/or noises coming from the hitch as you travel down the road. This can become very annoying during a long recreational trip. These hitches are usually found on work trucks that tend to pull a wide variety of different trailers which necessitates the need for adjustability. I doubt very much that your load weight will vary enough to create a need for you to adjust your hitch.
If you want adjustability, I would recommend a hitch that uses bolts to lock in the ball mount rather than pins, thus avoiding the looseness and noise caused by the pins.
that makes sense, having a hard time finding a 6" drop for a 2" ball & 2" box, with a sway bar tab welded on it. And I am beyond confused on what I really need for this trip out west.
I am getting the general concept of having extra stablizing arms on the trailer to reduce sway. I do not see how to connect the sway bar without the tab welded on the side of the primary 2" ball that is carrying the trailer. i really do not understand the weight distribution kit at all and how that will hlep this relativity light trailer hauled by a pretty good size SUV that is well within weight limits to safely do so.
Below are photos of what I could find at amazon, will be returning the adjustable height hitch - seems i am out of options here in town so to amazon I go: any direction without overkill on the WD/Swaybar recommendation I got from an online retailer would be great.
Those are reasonable options but I chose welding the ball mount tab because with the adapter plate, it would raise my tongue 3/4 inches AND I would have to buy a new ball (with longer shank) so it was not as inexpensive as it first appeared. The Curt sway control I linked to comes with a weld on plate / sway ball mount, and is likely the cheapest way to go if you know someone who can do a quick weld for you.
This may be a better look at it .. there is some lift on the front end of the Pilot & and the hithc is a bit too high for the Scamp causing it to dip in the back.
Trying to figure out if just changing out the ball hitch drop will level both out -- or will it better to go with a WD/Swag Control attachment - if so trying to find a model that is easy to use and not overkill. Scamp will be about 2,000 full - but wil be driving over the mountains with it empty so weight will be about 1,600 lb.
wandering for fun
I have a 2005 Pilot and a 2009 Scamp 16 SD which I have been using since it was new in 2009. There are three mods. to your setup that I think would make a better towing experience for you. I would recommend putting air bags on your rear coil springs to have adjustability in increasing your TV's load carrying ability, adjusting your towing ball height, and a friction type sway bar. The TV and the trailer need to be parallel to the the road surface when towing down the road. The back of the Pilot is a catch all for extra gear which adds extra weight to the rear of the Pilot. This is where the air bag adjustability comes in to make the TV parallel to the road again.
I hopes this helps.
Don
Really don't think you need a WDH or sway for a 13 Scamp. As Manwithavan says above measure the front and rear wheel well before and after hitching and if it lifts/drops more than 1" then consider it. You definitely need the larger drop to get the nose of the Scamp down first.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
I'm not going to try and diagnose your towing set up from a few photos, but I do suspect that Greg is right about the WDH, and the suggestion to measure the tugs wheel well heights before and after hitching up (with tug and trailer normally loaded for camping) is a good one.
Assuming all you (might) need is sway control, you can get that for under $43 plus the cost of a little welding. This is going on my Scamp 16 before my spring trip to Florida:
CURT 17200 Sway Control Kit
Found this option at Fleet Farm while I was searching for a 6" hitch to level out scamp to the pilot. Thought it would help me keep it level not matter the weight changes on the trip since it can adjust to the 1/2 inch variance as needed. Camping World recommended this sway bar which was on sale for $35 last week. If it looks good, figure can start looking for locking pins for the adjustable hitch.
wandering for fun
One issue with these type hitches is that they all have some play in them (caused by loose and/or worn pins) which can result in "Chucking" and/or noises coming from the hitch as you travel down the road. This can become very annoying during a long recreational trip. These hitches are usually found on work trucks that tend to pull a wide variety of different trailers which necessitates the need for adjustability. I doubt very much that your load weight will vary enough to create a need for you to adjust your hitch.
If you want adjustability, I would recommend a hitch that uses bolts to lock in the ball mount rather than pins, thus avoiding the looseness and noise caused by the pins.
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
that makes sense, having a hard time finding a 6" drop for a 2" ball & 2" box, with a sway bar tab welded on it. And I am beyond confused on what I really need for this trip out west.
I am getting the general concept of having extra stablizing arms on the trailer to reduce sway. I do not see how to connect the sway bar without the tab welded on the side of the primary 2" ball that is carrying the trailer. i really do not understand the weight distribution kit at all and how that will hlep this relativity light trailer hauled by a pretty good size SUV that is well within weight limits to safely do so.
Below are photos of what I could find at amazon, will be returning the adjustable height hitch - seems i am out of options here in town so to amazon I go: any direction without overkill on the WD/Swaybar recommendation I got from an online retailer would be great.
wandering for fun
here are the other two photos of items that sound like could work, The WD/Sway bar seems like it is rated for the weight, without being too high.
the tab on the side of the hitch is what the swaybar will attach to but can not find in a 6" drop yet
wandering for fun
Class II https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/RP26005.html
Class III/IV https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/RP26003.html
Check these out. Inexpensive solution to be used on any ball mount.
Those are reasonable options but I chose welding the ball mount tab because with the adapter plate, it would raise my tongue 3/4 inches AND I would have to buy a new ball (with longer shank) so it was not as inexpensive as it first appeared. The Curt sway control I linked to comes with a weld on plate / sway ball mount, and is likely the cheapest way to go if you know someone who can do a quick weld for you.
Pages