will try one more RV store tomorrow to see if I can find these parts locally, will be out returning anyways
A friend who has been RVing for decades and has a longer, heavier travel trailer recommends the Equal-i-zer WD w/ 4 pint sway, rated fro 4,000 & 400 TW -- I watched the videos from Curt & etrailer on how the sway bar installs & sets, along with the Blue OX & Equal-i-zer.... The last option is starting to seem the eaisest to install and use for me - and will not require me to weld onto the trailer frame or continue to check & set the right tension. Here is a screen shot of it, and no chains -- from what I can tell, we put it on and forget about it. Would I still need a 6" drop hitch if I go this route to balance out the Scamp. With all the extras adding up and finding a welder, I am about 3--40% of the way there for this one. At this point, will to go with what is safe & easy to use on the road.
Long term we hope our grown kids will be able to use the Scamp as well; not to climb mountains but to safely enjoy the rolling hills of the midwest - thinking they may need a WD system to pull it (5 speed Subaru Legacy, V6 Outback & 4 cyc Forrester would be their current options)... or am I still not getting how this all works?
I would suggest you find a trailer repair shop or even a U-Haul store (the big ones that install hitches) and talk to them about your need for a 6" drop and an appropriate ball mount for the sway bar. Sometimes the RV places are only familiar with the products they have in stock as opposed to what is available to solve your issue.
Additionally, If you do need to get a plate welded to your hitch the trailer repair shop can do it for you.
By-the-way, I would take my Scamp with me so that you get the perfect hitch for your SUV and Scamp.
Have you actually measured Pearl's hitch when she is sitting level and your SUV's receiver to determine the exact drop you need or are you relying on the suggestion from the service guy who hitched up your Scamp (not to dis the guy, but, his comment seemed off-the-cuff, and you need to know exactly which hitch to buy).
was going off his recommendation. will head over this weekend to measure Pearl level and get her into a RV dealer. thank you everyone for the input, planning on staying at 60 mph and off the roads in bad weather on the trip but it sounds like sway can be an issue in emergency braking & with semis so can not avoid those issues. was really hoping to avoid the $500 WD kit, since all were for much heavier trailers seemed like there may not much of a market for ones under 3,000 lbs.
sorry for all the typos and photos posts -- guess it shows how overwhelming it was all becoming.
Here is an Amazon link to a complete 1,000 lb WD hitch and Sway Control package for only $247. Amazon also has WD Hitches for 600 lbs and 800 lbs (oddly, those two options are higher priced).
By-the way, be sure to measure your wheel wells both before and after you attach Pearl (using a flat level surface). We always drive to the back side of Costco to check and adjust our WD hitch (by now they probably have a few hours of video showing us behind Costco, playing with our Tongue ).
Also, you are not the first person to traverse the road to a safe WD and/or Sway Control hitch solution, we've all traveled that road before you, so, don't become overwhelmed by the choices and options.
For those who can buy their own equipment and either install it themselves, E-trailer is the way to go. They have the weld on "tabs" or ears that Gordon mentioned, or the adaptor plate linked above. They sell about every kind of hitch, ball, mount, anti-sway, weight distribution equipment you can think of.
But ManWithAVan's point of view is also worthy of serious consideration. If you simply aren't able to make the proper choices or installation yourself, head over to a hitch shop, the most notable, reliable shop in town and just have them hook you up properly. Done. Pay the price for their expertise
But I have to say that a weight distribution hitch for a Scamp 13 is just so odd to my ears. The strong "delivery" man at Scamp simply picked up our Scamp's tongue and put it on the ball. It's less than 200 lbs. There was a day when I could done the same thing. That day has past, but with my wife's help, we can easily do it as well, if we needed to do so.
A weight distribution hitch on a Scamp 13 just sort of boggles my mind a bit and I begin to question how stout the tow vehicle is. Hundreds of people are towing Scamp 13s with Subaru Outbacks, Ford Escapes and Honda Elements, much less robust vehicles and none use a WDH.
thank you everyone for the encouragement as we figure this all out. Took photos today of Pearl leveled out and of the Pilot's receiver 2" box. From what I can see and from watching Curt's short video on how to determine hitch drop - it does look like I need to find a 6" drop with 2" ball set up. Is it better to get the welded ball set up, and weld on the sway bar adaptor? The bottom of Pearl's frame is at 14" to the cement, the hitch is a little higher than that, say 14.5". The Pilot measures 21" at the top of the 2" box and 18" at the bottom, so est. 20.5" for top inside of the reciever box. Math: 20.5 - 14.5 = 6" drop needed for her to ride level.
Off to return what I have & hunt for a 6" drop Class 3 trailer hitch. Will try to get it all weighed on Monday. Expected storm here Tuesday so do not want her out on the roads then. Thank you again. Also, for the 1,000 lb WD/ Sway bar option for $250 - would that be needed for the other cars anyways to tow safely?
The measurement of the Pilot's hitch should be done with the 200 lbs of the hitch weight on it. Otherwise, you're measuring a "point" on the Honda that is going to change once that weight is placed on it. Normally, one measures the coupler top and compares it to the top of the ball.
If you say (random fiqure here) that the TV ball height is 16" without the downward sag of the trailer connected, you are "guessing" at the height of the TV unless you measure it with the trailer connected. Gosh, I hope this makes sense.
You might do this. Measure the top of the Scamp's coupler while the trailer is just sitting level, on a very level pad of concrete. Then, lower the jack, ever so much, so that the Scamp tongue is now an inch down. The trailer being towed level is OK and better than being "up hill", but having a very slight downward slope to the front is great. Don't over do this either. Too much downward slope is almost as bad as too much upward slope.
We tow a Scamp 13 and it does not wig or wag or sway one iota no matter the conditions. No WHD. No anti-sway bar. The trailer is evenly balanced. There are those old timers who will tell you that these friction anti-sway bars are OK, but that they merely mask a trailer not properly balanced side to side with loading and the trailer is not properly graded from to back to match the height of the tow vehicle. Hope this isn't TMI, but there it is. Cost you nothin', as they say.
For sag, should I drive it with the 4" drop hitch and put in the basics of the trip ... Bedding, clothes, dishes etc. not going with much else in Pearl while driving. Taking three water containers in pilot til we are over Rockies. Plan on hauling coolers, and most the gear in the Pilot too. Figure it will help keep weight down in Pearl and keep her tidy too.
Returned the adjustable hitch and RV stores here close early on weekends in the off season. Do I need the 6" drop to figure it out?
To repeat, the best advice still seems to be this. Hitch up your trailer and make an appointment at the best hitch shop or RV garage in town.
The virtual world falls short. Some things just have to done in the real world with real eyes on the subject at hand. Best to you in your future adventures to the mountains and beyond.
will try one more RV store tomorrow to see if I can find these parts locally, will be out returning anyways
A friend who has been RVing for decades and has a longer, heavier travel trailer recommends the Equal-i-zer WD w/ 4 pint sway, rated fro 4,000 & 400 TW -- I watched the videos from Curt & etrailer on how the sway bar installs & sets, along with the Blue OX & Equal-i-zer.... The last option is starting to seem the eaisest to install and use for me - and will not require me to weld onto the trailer frame or continue to check & set the right tension. Here is a screen shot of it, and no chains -- from what I can tell, we put it on and forget about it. Would I still need a 6" drop hitch if I go this route to balance out the Scamp. With all the extras adding up and finding a welder, I am about 3--40% of the way there for this one. At this point, will to go with what is safe & easy to use on the road.
Long term we hope our grown kids will be able to use the Scamp as well; not to climb mountains but to safely enjoy the rolling hills of the midwest - thinking they may need a WD system to pull it (5 speed Subaru Legacy, V6 Outback & 4 cyc Forrester would be their current options)... or am I still not getting how this all works?
wandering for fun
I would suggest you find a trailer repair shop or even a U-Haul store (the big ones that install hitches) and talk to them about your need for a 6" drop and an appropriate ball mount for the sway bar. Sometimes the RV places are only familiar with the products they have in stock as opposed to what is available to solve your issue.
Additionally, If you do need to get a plate welded to your hitch the trailer repair shop can do it for you.
By-the-way, I would take my Scamp with me so that you get the perfect hitch for your SUV and Scamp.
Have you actually measured Pearl's hitch when she is sitting level and your SUV's receiver to determine the exact drop you need or are you relying on the suggestion from the service guy who hitched up your Scamp (not to dis the guy, but, his comment seemed off-the-cuff, and you need to know exactly which hitch to buy).
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
was going off his recommendation. will head over this weekend to measure Pearl level and get her into a RV dealer. thank you everyone for the input, planning on staying at 60 mph and off the roads in bad weather on the trip but it sounds like sway can be an issue in emergency braking & with semis so can not avoid those issues. was really hoping to avoid the $500 WD kit, since all were for much heavier trailers seemed like there may not much of a market for ones under 3,000 lbs.
sorry for all the typos and photos posts -- guess it shows how overwhelming it was all becoming.
wandering for fun
Here is an Amazon link to a complete 1,000 lb WD hitch and Sway Control package for only $247. Amazon also has WD Hitches for 600 lbs and 800 lbs (oddly, those two options are higher priced).
https://amzn.to/2EHvupK
By-the way, be sure to measure your wheel wells both before and after you attach Pearl (using a flat level surface). We always drive to the back side of Costco to check and adjust our WD hitch (by now they probably have a few hours of video showing us behind Costco, playing with our Tongue
).
Also, you are not the first person to traverse the road to a safe WD and/or Sway Control hitch solution, we've all traveled that road before you, so, don't become overwhelmed by the choices and options.
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
For those who can buy their own equipment and either install it themselves, E-trailer is the way to go. They have the weld on "tabs" or ears that Gordon mentioned, or the adaptor plate linked above. They sell about every kind of hitch, ball, mount, anti-sway, weight distribution equipment you can think of.
But ManWithAVan's point of view is also worthy of serious consideration. If you simply aren't able to make the proper choices or installation yourself, head over to a hitch shop, the most notable, reliable shop in town and just have them hook you up properly. Done. Pay the price for their expertise
But I have to say that a weight distribution hitch for a Scamp 13 is just so odd to my ears. The strong "delivery" man at Scamp simply picked up our Scamp's tongue and put it on the ball. It's less than 200 lbs. There was a day when I could done the same thing. That day has past, but with my wife's help, we can easily do it as well, if we needed to do so.
A weight distribution hitch on a Scamp 13 just sort of boggles my mind a bit and I begin to question how stout the tow vehicle is. Hundreds of people are towing Scamp 13s with Subaru Outbacks, Ford Escapes and Honda Elements, much less robust vehicles and none use a WDH.
thank you everyone for the encouragement as we figure this all out. Took photos today of Pearl leveled out and of the Pilot's receiver 2" box. From what I can see and from watching Curt's short video on how to determine hitch drop - it does look like I need to find a 6" drop with 2" ball set up. Is it better to get the welded ball set up, and weld on the sway bar adaptor? The bottom of Pearl's frame is at 14" to the cement, the hitch is a little higher than that, say 14.5". The Pilot measures 21" at the top of the 2" box and 18" at the bottom, so est. 20.5" for top inside of the reciever box. Math: 20.5 - 14.5 = 6" drop needed for her to ride level.
Off to return what I have & hunt for a 6" drop Class 3 trailer hitch. Will try to get it all weighed on Monday. Expected storm here Tuesday so do not want her out on the roads then. Thank you again. Also, for the 1,000 lb WD/ Sway bar option for $250 - would that be needed for the other cars anyways to tow safely?
wandering for fun
The measurement of the Pilot's hitch should be done with the 200 lbs of the hitch weight on it. Otherwise, you're measuring a "point" on the Honda that is going to change once that weight is placed on it. Normally, one measures the coupler top and compares it to the top of the ball.
If you say (random fiqure here) that the TV ball height is 16" without the downward sag of the trailer connected, you are "guessing" at the height of the TV unless you measure it with the trailer connected. Gosh, I hope this makes sense.
You might do this. Measure the top of the Scamp's coupler while the trailer is just sitting level, on a very level pad of concrete. Then, lower the jack, ever so much, so that the Scamp tongue is now an inch down. The trailer being towed level is OK and better than being "up hill", but having a very slight downward slope to the front is great. Don't over do this either. Too much downward slope is almost as bad as too much upward slope.
We tow a Scamp 13 and it does not wig or wag or sway one iota no matter the conditions. No WHD. No anti-sway bar. The trailer is evenly balanced. There are those old timers who will tell you that these friction anti-sway bars are OK, but that they merely mask a trailer not properly balanced side to side with loading and the trailer is not properly graded from to back to match the height of the tow vehicle. Hope this isn't TMI, but there it is. Cost you nothin', as they say.
For sag, should I drive it with the 4" drop hitch and put in the basics of the trip ... Bedding, clothes, dishes etc. not going with much else in Pearl while driving. Taking three water containers in pilot til we are over Rockies. Plan on hauling coolers, and most the gear in the Pilot too. Figure it will help keep weight down in Pearl and keep her tidy too.
Returned the adjustable hitch and RV stores here close early on weekends in the off season. Do I need the 6" drop to figure it out?
wandering for fun
http://www.scampowners.com/forums/help-needed-trailer-ball-height
remember the weight on the ball will change the height you need.
I stand on the my van ball and the van drops 1/2 inch (235 LBS)
Hope that helps
To repeat, the best advice still seems to be this. Hitch up your trailer and make an appointment at the best hitch shop or RV garage in town.
The virtual world falls short. Some things just have to done in the real world with real eyes on the subject at hand. Best to you in your future adventures to the mountains and beyond.
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