I’ve been full-time in my Scamp since May 4 and about two weeks ago noticed that a cabinet is pulling away from the trailer frame. I have a 2013 16' layout 4. The cabinet in qustion is the one with the refrigerator, which is to the left of the door as you enter. I sent an email with photos to Scamp and got the reply, "Cabinet probably just needs to be re-fastened in place. Rivet probably broke on top."
Of course, I am really concerned about whether or not this is a major structural issue or just something I need to get fixed? I’m not having much success at getting a local RV repair shop/person due to the fact that all are over booked at this time of year. Would appreciate any input about what I need to do. Has anyone else experienced this issue and, if so, what was the solution / resolution.
Congratulations on starting a full-time Scamping experience. Are you truly what we call full-time where you have sold everything off and living in the Scamp or are you Full/Part-time where you've kept a house as a base of operations. Would love to hear more of your plans in that direction.
On to the cabinet. First of all, from what I can see I wouldn't be worried that this is critical. You want to repair it soon, but there are a lot of rivets in that support piece and just one or two failing won't cause a long term issue unless it is ignored.
It would appear to be a rivet issue, but difficult to tell from the pic. Could you post a pic of the outside at that location that shows the rivets/snap caps going around that support structure. If it is a rivet issue, it's too easy a fix if you have any tools or can get the tools from a Home Depot or ACE. A skill you definitely should learn and repair kit you should have with you if you are going full-time in the Scamp. Rivets can pop or loosen and it's good to be able to fix them quickly and inexpensively wherever you are.
Once we can determine it is a rivet issue, if you stop an ACE Hardware (they have better selections of rivets and sizes available) I'm sure whoever's working the tools section will come look at it for you and help you put together what you need to fix it. They will be able to show you how to pop a rivet with the rivet gun as well. We can help walk you through it here as well if you have questions.
Here's a basic list of what you would need:
Rechargeable drill w/assortment of bits, pliers, punch, tap hammer, rivets (in that location I have the 3/16 by 1.2 grip range for the 13 but they can match it up), snap cap and washer should be reusable on a 2013, bit of butyl tape recommended, new acorn nut/backing washer for the inside. Then you'll have the start of a rivet repair kit in your TV going forward. You can probably purchase every thing you need for less than half of what an RV shop would charge you for the repair.
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My experience confirms Greg's comments and counsel.
If you travel solo I have a tool for you to use on the inside to hold the acorn nut while you are outside installing the rivet.
The rivet you are using needs to be long enough to go inside the trailer and fit into the acorn nut. While these are threaded nuts you don't use them that way. It's the rivet that pulls everything snug.
Purchase a length of 1/2 inch PVC 8 foot, or whatever length they come in. Then also purchase a 1/2 dozen male threaded/slip and female threaded/slip connectors. Cut the PVC into a variety of lengths and add the connectors to put it back together. I think my lengths are mostly 18 inches with a couple 12 inches. Don't think I have any shorter.
So now you've put the PVC back together. On one end make about 2 cuts across the end, so you have 4 slits, cut down about an inch. Now take your acorn down to the store and buy a 1 foot length on aluminum tubing which your little acorn nut fits into perfectly. That would be just over the rounded part. You don't want the acorn all the way in the tubing as you are making a tool to hold it in place while you rivet outside. Also buy a small hose clamp to fit over the 1/2 PVC.
Alright, are you seeing what going to happen next!! Put aluminum tubing into the PVC and tighten the clamp. Now you have a tool to use in just about any place in your trailer. You just need to add or remove lengths of PVC and/or let the tubing in and out.
I've had only 2 rivets pop on my Scamp in some 14 years and used this tool quite successfully. One rivet was on the cabinet and through the ceiling so I had the tool braced against the floor. The other rivet was on the side of a cabinet so the tool got braced against the opposing wall. I accidently broke one of the plastic washers under a cap on the roof so I drilled out the rivet and replaced it and washer by using the acorn tool braced from the ceiling to the top of the rear bench seat.
Here's a couple of pictures, not great as my camera battery packs need charging.
I carry these pieces of PVC in a bag and have a few more pieces as well. I use them for a clothes line, as an arm on the side of the awning to hold a drop cloth as well as many other things I can't think of right now.
Joy A. & Olive
2001 13 Scamp "Puff"
Full-timer
2019 1500 Ram Longhorn
SOI #168
Thank you for your reply to my dilemma. Your tool is ingenious.
Greg hooked me up with an SOI member in Anacortes, Steve (KeeponTryin), who is a godsend when it comes to repairing and customizing. I’m at the 1000 Trails in LaConner/Anacortes, WA, so how perfect could it get. With Steve's help I got the broken rivets replaced, which is just a stop gap. In Sept we are planning a major revamp of the cabinet housing the refrigerator. In the plan 4 layout the cabinet holding my refrigerator is a closet. The original owners had the large refrigerator installed there. I only want or need the smaller refrigerator. Currently looking into whether or not we can put the smaller fridge where it really belongs (in the cabinet next to the stove). If not, the extra space left from installing the smaller fridge will make a nice cabinet or drawer.
Cheers
Krestine
Big thank you to SOI members Steve and Sandy (Keepontryin) who came to the rescue of SOI Member and Full-Time Scamp Woman Krestine. As always, members helping members is what we're really about whether it be answering questions in the forums or like Steve stepping up to help a member in the field. We really appreciate our members and the time they share helping others.
Great job Steve and Sandy and I'm sure you have made a life-long friend now!
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According to several replies I got on Fiberglassrv.com the rivets holding the closet to the ceiling is common in both the 13' and 16' Scamps as well as Casitas. One reply stated, "As the trailer ages, air leaks out of the refletix and things settle in you will see the failure rate lessen." Well, now I must learn about the effects of air leakage in refletix.
Googled "refletix" and learned it is Reflectix® Insulation.
Perhaps since now we seem to know rivet failure is a common problem with the closet, would it not be prudent to add a couple rivits to the front facing and not expect one rivet on each corner to do the job, especially if the closet is housing a 4.6cf refrigerator? I think it is going to take a lot more work for me to move the cabinet back into place than it would have taken to pop a couple more rivets.
Krestine
Krestine
I very well could be off base, but just from personal experience I would have to disagree with the assessment that rivet failure, at least in Scamps, is common. In over a decade of owning 2 - 13's and a 5er I've never had to replace a rivet from failure. I'm sure it does happen and I've seen occasional posts about it, but not to the degree where I'd label it as a common problem. I can't speak to Casita's, but someone might chime in that has experience with those trailers.
Here is an alternative solution for you that will remove the rivet failure possibility going forward. On my first 13 Scamp I replaced all the rivets with SS bolts, washers and nuts. However, you'd first have to be confident that you cleaned up the design issue with the closet/fridge stress in your unit before going to a stronger solution. If there is a design/stress flaw it would be better to have the shear capability of the rivet to make sure you've alleviated the problem.
My take is that I'd go to the redesign with the smaller fridge like you have planned and make sure there is good support designed at the base, then you can always add more rivets or screws later if needed. Just me, but I don't like adding holes through the shell unless absolutely necessary.
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2015 19 Escape
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Greg,
Seems that there are as many opinions as Scamps. Not surprising because every one has a his or her own experience(s). I just can't totally discount the possibility that the 4.6cf fridge is too much, especially since 4.5" of the fridge with added wooden frame extends past the cabinet into the room area. That is probably the first thing I did not like. A big framed box protruding from the middle of the cupboard visually unbalances the rest of the space and possibly physically unbalances the cupboard. I'm a less is more type, so having a smaller refridgerator is okay.
I think Steve and I will enjoy doing the rebuild. Question: Do you think adding additional rivits to the cupboard is not necessary?
Oh, if anyone is looking for a 4.6cf refridgerator, I'll have an in great shape, used one for sale in September.
Thanks again
Krestine
Steve is very good, so I'd go with whatever he thinks will be necessary when you do the rebuild of that compartment. I like your decision to downsize the fridge and the smaller one will be plenty for you. You'll also gain storage which is at a premium in these trailers. Make sure you take lots of pics and post of the redo in Sept.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
I answered your post on the other forum. It was not my intent to imply that rivet failures were a common issues with Scamp or any other fiberglass trailers. I was trying to point out that if you do have a rivet failure it is more likely to happen at the closet upper corners and not to be to concerned with a loose rivet at these locations, just replace them and keep an eye on them.
Eddie
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