You may think that your renovation is finally complete, but something else you want will come up ;)
I'm not sure how much I would watch TV but I do want it available. so I think I will run the cable through a hole in the floor (under the dinette seat) to start with. Having trouble figuring a good way to go from there however. I would like to have a weather proof female socket mounted on the bumper or something like that. And cheap.. must be cheap. I might just use a grounding pass through and rivet it to the bumper, then put a cap on the open end when not in use.
the one I installed (male connector) and is pictured above was super cheap, maybe $8 on Amazon. My TV is installed on the side of my closet on the opposite side of the Scamp. from the inside the coax is connected to the connection point I installed. then routed around the rear wall.....so under both benches and between the installed flooring and the wall under the dinette (so hidden), into the street side bench and thru a hol;e I drilled into the closet from the bench. comes out up at the top of the closet, behind the TV. it's pretty clean. I don't use it much either, but it is nice to have when the weather chases you in
Most of the CATV connectors like Deb put in have a really good weatherproof cover that snaps closed. I'd think you could simply drill the hole in the drivers side bench floor close to the outside wall and mount the CATV connector to the under side of the flooring with a good butyl taping. Mount the top of the connector facing the tongue so water can't get in when driving and you should be good to go.You would end up with an invisible CATV setup when not cabled in.
At Scamp Camp (Sebring) someone brought the TV cable through the floor then mounted the tv jack to the shell skirt below the floor level, no need to worry about leaks on that install.
I Completed installation of a Furrion FCKIT30-PS conversion kit today. It went well, no big problems.The screw holes in the round adapter plate are a little off from the original mouse hole screws holes. It seems strange to me that they supply flathead screws to attach the connecter to the round adapter plate. Oh well! I did not like to use screws or rivets to mount the kit so I used through bolts. I put 3 10-24 "T" nuts into a piece of 1/2" plywood that was 61/2" square. I then made 3 studs by cutting the heads off of 2" 10-24 machine screws. I cut a 61/2" square of the rat fur and insulation from the inside. I then gooped up the plywood with a sealant and bonding compound, and with the studs in the "T" nuts pushed the plywood against the inside opening so that the studs were sticking outside. Using sealant I slid the gasket and adapter plate over the studs then I removed one stud at a time and installed a 10-24 pan head machine screw into each "T" nut and tightened evenly.
You may think that your renovation is finally complete, but something else you want will come up ;)
I'm not sure how much I would watch TV but I do want it available. so I think I will run the cable through a hole in the floor (under the dinette seat) to start with. Having trouble figuring a good way to go from there however. I would like to have a weather proof female socket mounted on the bumper or something like that. And cheap.. must be cheap. I might just use a grounding pass through and rivet it to the bumper, then put a cap on the open end when not in use.
the one I installed (male connector) and is pictured above was super cheap, maybe $8 on Amazon. My TV is installed on the side of my closet on the opposite side of the Scamp. from the inside the coax is connected to the connection point I installed. then routed around the rear wall.....so under both benches and between the installed flooring and the wall under the dinette (so hidden), into the street side bench and thru a hol;e I drilled into the closet from the bench. comes out up at the top of the closet, behind the TV. it's pretty clean. I don't use it much either, but it is nice to have when the weather chases you in
Deb Staines
2016 16’, layout 4
'Rapscallion'
Gordon,
Most of the CATV connectors like Deb put in have a really good weatherproof cover that snaps closed. I'd think you could simply drill the hole in the drivers side bench floor close to the outside wall and mount the CATV connector to the under side of the flooring with a good butyl taping. Mount the top of the connector facing the tongue so water can't get in when driving and you should be good to go.You would end up with an invisible CATV setup when not cabled in.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
How about $2.90 for the TV inlet (add $7 for shipping)? See HERE
Or $4.99 at Campingworld. So cost is not the issue. I'm just not ready to put another hole in the camper shell just yet.
Esp since I might choose rivets instead of VHB tape for the solar panel I am planning.
Yes Greg.. that is about what I am thinking to do, until and unless I decide I want something better.
Furrion FCKIT30-PS White 30 Amp Conversion Kit with LED Inlet
OR
Furrion F30INS-PS Square Non-Metallic 30 Amp Inlet with Stainless Plate
http://www.scampowners.com/comment/5394#comment-5394
At Scamp Camp (Sebring) someone brought the TV cable through the floor then mounted the tv jack to the shell skirt below the floor level, no need to worry about leaks on that install.
Eddie
I Completed installation of a Furrion FCKIT30-PS conversion kit today. It went well, no big problems.The screw holes in the round adapter plate are a little off from the original mouse hole screws holes. It seems strange to me that they supply flathead screws to attach the connecter to the round adapter plate. Oh well! I did not like to use screws or rivets to mount the kit so I used through bolts. I put 3 10-24 "T" nuts into a piece of 1/2" plywood that was 61/2" square. I then made 3 studs by cutting the heads off of 2" 10-24 machine screws. I cut a 61/2" square of the rat fur and insulation from the inside. I then gooped up the plywood with a sealant and bonding compound, and with the studs in the "T" nuts pushed the plywood against the inside opening so that the studs were sticking outside. Using sealant I slid the gasket and adapter plate over the studs then I removed one stud at a time and installed a 10-24 pan head machine screw into each "T" nut and tightened evenly.
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