i just installed the weather stripping and need to make up a shim. Would you be able to give me the thickness of the shim they gave you? I was going to try 1/8".
I made up a 1/8 thick aluminum shim using the door latch as a template and have had it on a couple of weeks now. The door now closes with a lot less effort and expect it will get easier as time goes on. The new gasket sure is an improvement over the old one! On another note I did find acetone to be the best thing to use when removing the glue. Just be sure and wear protective gear and don't spill any on painted surfaces etc.
Mark, our 2016 we recently picked up in Backus has the shim plate already installed. Unfortunately, it wasn't thick enough still to keep the door from being virtually impossible to shut, especially from the inside where you're pulling, not pushing.
1/8 is correct. I took a good hard look and the piece doesn't appear to be plastic, but perhaps cut from a piece of paneling. Really, it doesn't matter what the material is, I suppose. I had to install micro washer, stainless, on each screw to build it out another 1/8. We're on the road with it, so this makes do until we return home. I may well add more thickness to the shim, but the washers installed on each screw, between the inside lock and the factory shim do work well. The good thing about using washers is that you can use two on the upper set, for example, while only use one set on the lower two screws. This allows you to "tilt" the lock set to better match the angle of the strike plate.
Ya tweak, ya live, ya try, ya learn and ya make it work.
The mechanic that worked on my Scamp at the factory just handed me a shim in passing at the end of our work. So glad he did. I could never close the door with the new rubber gasket without the shim in the door latch mechannism. It was made from some plastic type material, but about anything like wood will work. Its in to stay!
I would guess that the current gasket is the same that was in my new Scamp 16 when I got it in late Sept of last year. My door was hard to close and I had to push or pull pretty hard (in the right places of course). But now, just over four months later, it closes fine, with just the amount of effort I think is appropriate. No shims were ever used. YMMV.
I assume you mean the bottom of your door is straightening. We have owned our SCAMP 13' 40+ years. The first door straightened to the point that it got damaged and had to be replaced. The second one also was straightening (after 15-20 years). When we restored the trailer in 2014-15, I was able to bend it to fit the body again, using the following method. I put pressure on the door bottom, bending it, by using a floor jack...then poured hot water on the inner side of the door in the area of the bend. (The inner core of the door, I believe, is 3/4" plywood. I asked myself: how does one bend wood? Answer: by pouring hot water over it while bending it.) Now, to keep the door in shape, I am using the following method. I drilled two small holes just above the trim at the bottom, near the corners. I insert rubber straps into these holes; these straps are stretched on the other end and inserted into two large staples mounted into the plywood floor. I notice now, as the trailer has been sitting all winter with the door pulled tight to the body, that when the straps are taken off, the door fits perfectly!
my scamp was still under warranty. i had the old type cheap foam seal. they sent me the new strong seal .,arrived in 2 days. lots of work removing the old adhesive. used goo gone. got about 90% of it off . the rest was dry, so applied new seal over it. and worked fine. the adhesive on new seal is very strong. i put the seal under the metal bar at bottom of door. i closed door and with a work lite next to bottom of door, look at the door from the inside of dark interior. if you see any light coming through, you can add some peel and stick foam tape on the door itself. the door will be very hard to close from the inside. but this went away in just afew days. very happy with the new look and seal. the new seal had about 4 feet left after job, so its plenty long.
I am curious to many things, one of them is if the seal is a continuous piece all the way around the door, or if the seal starts at the bottom corner...makes its way around the top of the door and back to the other bottom corner in a "U" shape, and than a straight piece is used along the bottom of the door to connect the 2 ends of the "U"
Doug,
i just installed the weather stripping and need to make up a shim. Would you be able to give me the thickness of the shim they gave you? I was going to try 1/8".
Thank you, Mark
I made up a 1/8 thick aluminum shim using the door latch as a template and have had it on a couple of weeks now. The door now closes with a lot less effort and expect it will get easier as time goes on. The new gasket sure is an improvement over the old one! On another note I did find acetone to be the best thing to use when removing the glue. Just be sure and wear protective gear and don't spill any on painted surfaces etc.
Mark, our 2016 we recently picked up in Backus has the shim plate already installed. Unfortunately, it wasn't thick enough still to keep the door from being virtually impossible to shut, especially from the inside where you're pulling, not pushing.
1/8 is correct. I took a good hard look and the piece doesn't appear to be plastic, but perhaps cut from a piece of paneling. Really, it doesn't matter what the material is, I suppose. I had to install micro washer, stainless, on each screw to build it out another 1/8. We're on the road with it, so this makes do until we return home. I may well add more thickness to the shim, but the washers installed on each screw, between the inside lock and the factory shim do work well. The good thing about using washers is that you can use two on the upper set, for example, while only use one set on the lower two screws. This allows you to "tilt" the lock set to better match the angle of the strike plate.
Ya tweak, ya live, ya try, ya learn and ya make it work.
The mechanic that worked on my Scamp at the factory just handed me a shim in passing at the end of our work. So glad he did. I could never close the door with the new rubber gasket without the shim in the door latch mechannism. It was made from some plastic type material, but about anything like wood will work. Its in to stay!
<p>Doug Allen 2016 Ford F-150 2018 Lance 1575</p>
I would guess that the current gasket is the same that was in my new Scamp 16 when I got it in late Sept of last year. My door was hard to close and I had to push or pull pretty hard (in the right places of course). But now, just over four months later, it closes fine, with just the amount of effort I think is appropriate. No shims were ever used. YMMV.
I assume you mean the bottom of your door is straightening. We have owned our SCAMP 13' 40+ years. The first door straightened to the point that it got damaged and had to be replaced. The second one also was straightening (after 15-20 years). When we restored the trailer in 2014-15, I was able to bend it to fit the body again, using the following method. I put pressure on the door bottom, bending it, by using a floor jack...then poured hot water on the inner side of the door in the area of the bend. (The inner core of the door, I believe, is 3/4" plywood. I asked myself: how does one bend wood? Answer: by pouring hot water over it while bending it.) Now, to keep the door in shape, I am using the following method. I drilled two small holes just above the trim at the bottom, near the corners. I insert rubber straps into these holes; these straps are stretched on the other end and inserted into two large staples mounted into the plywood floor. I notice now, as the trailer has been sitting all winter with the door pulled tight to the body, that when the straps are taken off, the door fits perfectly!
my scamp was still under warranty. i had the old type cheap foam seal. they sent me the new strong seal .,arrived in 2 days. lots of work removing the old adhesive. used goo gone. got about 90% of it off . the rest was dry, so applied new seal over it. and worked fine. the adhesive on new seal is very strong. i put the seal under the metal bar at bottom of door. i closed door and with a work lite next to bottom of door, look at the door from the inside of dark interior. if you see any light coming through, you can add some peel and stick foam tape on the door itself. the door will be very hard to close from the inside. but this went away in just afew days. very happy with the new look and seal. the new seal had about 4 feet left after job, so its plenty long.
robert
Now the thread's over two years old!
Still, I was wondering - what is the door seal you mention and where did you get it? I need to replace mine (on a 1999 16').
Thanks,
Randy
Randy in Paonia
Can we get some pics of these new seals installed please?
Specifically the joint where the seal ends meet after routing the seal all the way around the door and back to where you began.
Thanks.
Bump for pics , please :)
I am curious to many things, one of them is if the seal is a continuous piece all the way around the door, or if the seal starts at the bottom corner...makes its way around the top of the door and back to the other bottom corner in a "U" shape, and than a straight piece is used along the bottom of the door to connect the 2 ends of the "U"
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