Anyone who has an earlier model Scamp needs to order and install the new Scamp Door Rib Seal. It is finally the solution to sealing up these Scamp doors with a quality seal and adhesive that appears that it will last for years. Watch the shipping charges when ordering online, if you don't like it call them directly. My recent order had ridiculous shipping on it, so I called and complained and he did the order with more reasonable ground shipping.
Replacing the door seal is simple depending on what the previous owners had done. Many folks used strange weather stripping and adhesives over the years trying to solve the problem so cleaning off the old seal can be pretty laborious. You must clean the old seal and adhesives completely off down to good bare gel-coat before applying the new seal. I used plastic scrapers, a sharp metal scraper(carefully), and goof off to get my seal area down to clean gel-coat. The rib flap points to the outside of the door and you peel and stick the new seal. Word of caution: The adhesive is very strong and unforgiving so you must be perfectly aligned where you are putting the seal before pressing the adhesive down. Only peel and stick about a foot at a time and go very slowly and carefully. My door closed perfectly after putting the new seal on, but there was a 1/4" wood filler board someone had put behind my lock. You may need a filler board or washers behind the lock to shim out and accommodate the new seal in order to get the door closed.
Finished picture with new seal installed. No light can be seen inside around the door after the install. Great product solution for a long time Scamp problem.
Well, finally our shower floor drains! Camping World worked on it 2 days, and it turned out it was their fault! Yes, upon installing the sink, they left shavings, fiberglass, tubing and other items one the floor, ending up caught in the tubing on the way to the gray water tank. They blew the lines out, pump drains fine now! My charge was 0!!!
I'm moving to the propane system rebuild on our Scamp 19 during the lockdown projects.
The current system is a bit of a mess with two single regulators, one on each tank, going into a T at the front of the trailer. I am going to change that out to a dual regulator with a single supply line hose and two pigtails to the tanks. Thinking about a 2" x 8" piece of Aluminum that I will rivet onto the battery/propane cage at approximate location marked in yellow below.
I think this would be a good location, but not a lot of experience towing the 5th wheels. Anyone know of any issues that I might encounter if I setup the mounting bar and regulator in that area???
Also thinking about adding a QC connector where the supply line attaches to the front of the trailer. That would be a pretty good location for a QC to run BBC, stove, firepits, etc.
I just completed the utility tray revamp on our 19.
New 7 pin connector wired on
Fresh paint on all the front frame
Fresh paint on the sewer tube
New battery and box hold down
Crimped on new battery ring terminals with heat shrink tubing
New dual automatic propane regulator
In order to change it from two bbq regulators (one on each tank) to the new dual auto changeover regulator I had to build my own stand
I riveted the assembly onto the utility frame
The front left propane tank was missing a hold down. Too difficult to order one, so went to the Depot and got some steel bar and carefully matched the bends from the other one using the vise. Came out great and cost me about $4. Used a ratchet strap from the Depot for the battery box hold down.
If I had the hitch installed in my truck I'd take it for a spin and make sure all is solid, but seems to be a solid working setup.
Now ready to move back inside and get this awesome trailer completed for Scamping.
Also completed week prior replacing the old white broken power cord hatch.
1st step was to remove the old one and clean up the opening:
Next step butyl tape and rivet new hatch. I usually choose black plastic if available. The sun does less damage to the appearance than the white plastic which turns yellow:
Anyone who has an earlier model Scamp needs to order and install the new Scamp Door Rib Seal. It is finally the solution to sealing up these Scamp doors with a quality seal and adhesive that appears that it will last for years. Watch the shipping charges when ordering online, if you don't like it call them directly. My recent order had ridiculous shipping on it, so I called and complained and he did the order with more reasonable ground shipping.
Replacing the door seal is simple depending on what the previous owners had done. Many folks used strange weather stripping and adhesives over the years trying to solve the problem so cleaning off the old seal can be pretty laborious. You must clean the old seal and adhesives completely off down to good bare gel-coat before applying the new seal. I used plastic scrapers, a sharp metal scraper(carefully), and goof off to get my seal area down to clean gel-coat. The rib flap points to the outside of the door and you peel and stick the new seal. Word of caution: The adhesive is very strong and unforgiving so you must be perfectly aligned where you are putting the seal before pressing the adhesive down. Only peel and stick about a foot at a time and go very slowly and carefully. My door closed perfectly after putting the new seal on, but there was a 1/4" wood filler board someone had put behind my lock. You may need a filler board or washers behind the lock to shim out and accommodate the new seal in order to get the door closed.
Finished picture with new seal installed. No light can be seen inside around the door after the install. Great product solution for a long time Scamp problem.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Out standing friend.
<p>Doug Allen 2016 Ford F-150 2018 Lance 1575</p>
Well, finally our shower floor drains! Camping World worked on it 2 days, and it turned out it was their fault! Yes, upon installing the sink, they left shavings, fiberglass, tubing and other items one the floor, ending up caught in the tubing on the way to the gray water tank. They blew the lines out, pump drains fine now! My charge was 0!!!
<p>Doug Allen 2016 Ford F-150 2018 Lance 1575</p>
I'm moving to the propane system rebuild on our Scamp 19 during the lockdown projects.
The current system is a bit of a mess with two single regulators, one on each tank, going into a T at the front of the trailer. I am going to change that out to a dual regulator with a single supply line hose and two pigtails to the tanks. Thinking about a 2" x 8" piece of Aluminum that I will rivet onto the battery/propane cage at approximate location marked in yellow below.
I think this would be a good location, but not a lot of experience towing the 5th wheels. Anyone know of any issues that I might encounter if I setup the mounting bar and regulator in that area???
Also thinking about adding a QC connector where the supply line attaches to the front of the trailer. That would be a pretty good location for a QC to run BBC, stove, firepits, etc.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
I just completed the utility tray revamp on our 19.
In order to change it from two bbq regulators (one on each tank) to the new dual auto changeover regulator I had to build my own stand
I riveted the assembly onto the utility frame
The front left propane tank was missing a hold down. Too difficult to order one, so went to the Depot and got some steel bar and carefully matched the bends from the other one using the vise. Came out great and cost me about $4. Used a ratchet strap from the Depot for the battery box hold down.
If I had the hitch installed in my truck I'd take it for a spin and make sure all is solid, but seems to be a solid working setup.
Now ready to move back inside and get this awesome trailer completed for Scamping.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Also completed week prior replacing the old white broken power cord hatch.
1st step was to remove the old one and clean up the opening:
Next step butyl tape and rivet new hatch. I usually choose black plastic if available. The sun does less damage to the appearance than the white plastic which turns yellow:
And final cleanup:
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Thanks for posting updates to your Scamp 19. Its fun to see
- Ken
Pages