Mouse Hole RV Connector Conversion

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Greg A
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Mouse Hole RV Connector Conversion

One of the very first and simple modifications I did to my 1981 13 Scamp and now am doing to my 2005 Escape 17 is to convert the RV connector from a pull out cord through what is known as the "Mouse Hole," to a standard 30A RV Marine connector with a twist lock external cord.

Here is the existing mouse hole connector setup, very commonly found on Scamps, etc.

The reason it is known as a "Mouse Hole" is that mice will shinny up your power cord in the campgrounds and they can enter your trailer through the opening.  You will find the Ants do this as well through this very same pathway.

Step 1:  Drill out the rivets on the existing inlet and remove.

Step 2:  Pull your RV Connector cable all the way out and cut it with appropriate length so you may route the inside remaining cable out of the way.

Step 3: Clean all the old caulk/butyl off the fiberglass around the cutout.  That's all the Prep!

Another big reason you want to make this modification is not only to close up the Mouse and Ant access, but the cord when it is stuffed back into the trailer it takes up an entire storage bin.  After completing this project you will gain all of that underseat storage back for personal use and not storing RV cord.

Look at all the storage space that used to be full of electrical cable!!

Step 4: 

Using the new Park Power connectior mark and drill your 4 holes to mount the new connector.

Step 5:

I use this Park Power 30A connector and female twist lock connector to use the remaining cord as my external RV cord.

 

You now cut away the insulation on the trailer cord and strip the 3 wires to the correct length.  Slide the back cup and seal on and thread your cord through the the back cup in preparation for wiring the connector. There is a strain relief plate that goes over your cable on the back of the cup and two philips screws tighten that down.

Step 5:

White wire goes to white hole on the connector and tighten phillips screw, black to black, and green to green.  Mount the connector to the trailer, I used 4 - 1.5" # 8 SS bolts and locking nuts with washers.

 

Looking at the back from the inside of the storage.

One thing I will probably do in the next week is to build a 1/4 inch ply backing board to add some additional strength to the fiberglass since it is a stress point taking the cord on and off.

Trailer part is done.  Now I will put the 30A female plug on my cable that I cut off for the external cable.  I'll post pics of that when I get it finished.

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Yay!

I 100% support anything that means there will be no mice or ants in our trailer.  

Thank you, honey!  

Joe Z
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Will this adapter work?

Greg,

   I have been meaning to do that mod and your post just gave me a nudge. But i have a question. I mainly use a heavy 12 gauge regular extension cord as it easily fits my needs and stores in my pickup.....so would the adapter made by the same company fit into the new marine plug you installed?_____

It looks like it should..... If not i need to go the same route as you. I really dislike that mouse hole LOL

Adapter: Camco 55223 RV 15M/30F AMP PowerGrip Adapter

Park Power 301ELRV 30 Amp 125V Standard RV Inlet

Joe & Linda
New River, Arizona 

2013 Casita SD 17'

Greg A
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Joe,

Joe,

The Female adapter in my post will work on just about any size cable.  The RV Power cord for 30A is usually a 10/3 which is what was used in my Escape.  The Female adapter cover has three cable size markings at the back of the boot and you use a razor cutter to slice off accordingly to properly thread your cable into the boot.  Kind of a one size fits all solution.

There are actually two very similar marine connectors on the trailer side.  There is a Marinco and the Park Power which is made by Marinco.  The Park Power is a bit larger than the Marinco, which some of the mouse hole inlets were pretty big holes cut in the trailer.  The Marinco wouldn't have covered the hole in my trailer and the Park Power did, although I will need to fashion a backing plate for long-term to strengthen the fiberglass around the cutout.

Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape

Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:

Fiberglass-RV-4Sale

Joe Z
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Thanks for the info Greg....

Thanks for the info Greg.... i probably won't screw the cap from the adapter on just in case someone trips on the outside cable i want it to unplug from the trailer wrather than rip the fiberglass out..... Re-inforcement would be a good thing

Joe

Joe & Linda
New River, Arizona 

2013 Casita SD 17'

Greg A
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Joe, 

Joe, 

Most of the 30A RV connectors are twist-lock which these are.  The first step when you plug the cable into the receptacle is to insert and then twist which locks the blades in place so the power doesn't interrupt.  The second step is to lock which is  to screw the thread ring on.  If someone trips over your cable the twist won't release either, so it would probably be best practice to thread the ring.  We have had two lil kiddo's all our years of Scampin, and if they haven't run over the cable yet it probably isn't very likely to ever be an issue..      

I'll be assembling the power cord side of the mod on Tues and will post the completion pics then.

Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape

Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:

Fiberglass-RV-4Sale

Sandra L
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Great step by step

Great step by step illustrations and information!

Peace and Sunshine

Greg A
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Hi Sandra,

Hi Sandra,

Does ur Escape 17 have a mouse hole power cord?  I know on later models Reece offered a marine connector as an option.

Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape

Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:

Fiberglass-RV-4Sale

Greg A
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Part 2 of the RV Power

Part 2 of the RV Power connector modification is to make the external power cord from the cord cut off above.  Of course, if you like you could buy a finished RV Cord like this:

I purchased the female twist lock above and prefer to recycle the cord I cut off.

Step 1:

Cut the boot at the first marked line and slide it on the end of the power cord:

Step 2:  Separate the female connector and slide the back piece on the power cord:

Step3:  Cut insulation back 1.25 " and 5/8" on each of the 3 wires:

Step 4:  Slide each wire into the color coded hole on the connector and tighten the philips head screws on each wire, pick your connector ring either threaded or quick lock.  I chose the quick lock:

Step 5:  Screw the connector back to the back plate and slide the boot over the connector:

Step 6: Roll your new cord up and secure it for travel with the Marinco Velcro cord wrap:

Ready to go Scampin!!

Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape

Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:

Fiberglass-RV-4Sale

wkelleher
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This is what I used to remove

This is what I used to remove the strain from the twistlock in the side of the trailer.

Bill Kelleher

Flyboyscamp
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New. Plug Installation

Great slide show. Where does one get the Park Plug stuff?

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