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RE: "The people that recommend adaptors for hooking a seven-pin trailer cord to a 4 pin Tow vehicle have no idea what they are talking about. It only gives you lights to get it home. "
Times change. You might want to take a look at the brake controller that was specified and specially the wiring diagram. The AuTOWbrake controller mounts on the trailer and gets its power from the trailer battery as well as the brake signal from the brake / turn signal lights wiring. Since the brake and turn signal lights can or do share the same bulb and wire, it must be that the AuTOWbrake requires that both be lit at the same time so that it knows it is a brake signal and not a turn signal (wonder what happens if you have the four-way flashers on). It wires into the trailer wiring, not directly to the tow vehicle wiring. I do see a possible problem if you have a discharged trailer battery and also no charge line. In that case I can see that the trailer brakes would weaken or fail altogether. Therefore I would want a charge line also. They seem to allude to using the running lights circuit for power but that might overload the tow vehicle's running lighting circuit. Also I don't like the keyfob for manual brake activation. However,the plus is that this brake controller needs little or not modification to the tow vehicle.
Controller yes, adapter no. Trailer brakes and trailer brake controllers are two different things as well.
Words mean things.
I understand where you are coming from with your comment but perhaps I did not explain well. It is true the adapter only allows the car to indicate turning signals, running lights, and brake lights. The trick is that the brake controller is in the camper and when the brake lights signal the controller is engaged. Beyond that I do not understand exactly how the brake controller works, but I know that it does.
Yes the AUTOWBRAKE ($350) Run the brakes, but the adaptor that auto parts stores sell for $10 called for above will not. And what powers backup lights, and the 12 VDC to the Scamp. The parts stores are very happy to tell the new RV owner that the adapter is all they need.
Lots of people have neither a charge line or back up lights wiring for their trailer and they get along just fine. So their need might be met if they don't need those things. I dont have back up lights. I do have a charge line but do not need it and if the fuse blew I might not even notice.
And with the AuTOWbrake they don't need to tap into the brake pedal switch, or the wiring harness in the tug (if there even is one), or connect the charge line (but I as I said, I would). So its a possible solution for some (like Subaru owners) but I prefer my P3 wired solid into the tow vehicle.
The people at Scamp are going to put on the trailer brake controller on the 13’ camper we will pick up at the end of April. It just seemed easiest for us. The parts gentleman at Subaru told us that the hitch will be a flat 4 prong and we will need to get an adaptor from the auto parts store for about ten dollars. Fingers crossed that all goes as we have been explained. I would be happy to report back after we have picked up the Scamper Camper!
I like this idea! I have a 2016 Subaru Outback..I won't be picking my Scamp13 up until October. Keep us informed how it goes please!
Brakes are squeaking, what number do you tow at. Im towing with a Nissan frontier 4x4 crew cab. I towed my 13 scamp at 6.0(power knob) without a problem. Trying to pull a 16, its squeaking and I'm wondering if its the wrong setting or bad brakes? What number do most 16's need to be towed at? The trailer is about half the weight of the tow vehicle.
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