The 3 way fridge on my '03 13 has a removable pin on the top of the door which keeps the door tightly closed when traveling. As long as I remember to put the pin in place before I hit the road, it works very nicely. It looks like a stock installation.
On our 2017 13, I first took a wrench to the latch to bend it down so it firmly fit the “tang” on the door. This not only made it close securely, but allows me to use the half cock position that holds the door slightly open to air out between trips.
We found three shallow plastic trays that just fit the wire shelves. I drilled lots of 1-inch holes in the bottom to allow air circulation. The trays keep the contents from rolling around but can be removed to dig stuff out of the back.
While Scamping, we buy milk in pint bottles (like for lunches). These small and tough bottles can lie on their sides with no problem. They have screw lids.
Although I don't have a scamp.........YET, I have an old shasta (?) that my kids use mostly but I do a lot of camping. As far as milk, if I buy it in a container that could possibly leak, I always transfer to some kind of bottle or jar I have saved that has a tight screw on lid. I made "new" shelves for my fridge by cutting to size that white closet shelving, put caps on the cut edge or it will scratch your fridge, put it in upside down so you have a little lip, helps hold things in. And the little plastic bins someone mentioned are great. Eggs always seem to take up space in the ice chest or fridge and are hard to transport but I love them and need them for cooking. So my remedy is to crack them all into a clean glass jar, the yoke won't break, they float in there intact until you need them. If you use a wide mouth jar you can easily use a spoon to take out an individual egg or if you use a smaller mouth jar, half dollar size or smaller the eggs will pour (plop) out one at a time.......well, sometimes two :) And yes you can still make fried eggs as they stay individual. There is some of the loser outer egg white that doesn't stay intact but a little of it comes out each time you pour anyway so it's pretty much even. You will be amazed at how little space a dozen eggs takes and no broken wasted eggs !!!! And if I want scrambled eggs I just give it a shake and add a little milk......waaalah !!! If you are using a really narrow mouth bottle you can get the eggs in with a fatter stemmed funnel and pretty much any kind of container will work................Happy scamping or camping :))))) They may not keep as long but I have never has any rotten eggs !
Our fridge door has never flown open. We can pack quite a bit of food in the small fridge. I like to have salads. I pack them in square Glad-type plastic containers, and leave the tomatoes whole. I use the super tiny containers for dressing and sit that inside the salad container. The tomatoes have a cushion on the lettuce, and the dressing doesn't take up any extra space. Cheese and meat are flat packages, and I usually have room to keep a loaf of bread in there too. I plug in the Scamp the night before we leave to get the fridge nice and cold (the 12V doesn't run as cold when we are on the road). We usually have a small cooler for cold drinks in the car, and load them as needed in the fridge once we are parked. We only go for a day or two though. If we did longer trips, I might be inclined to shell out $$$$ for a Yeti cooler. I don't usually take milk, and I just use it at home only occasionally. I buy plastic screw-top pint bottles of it. They could lay down in the fridge and are tough enough to probably take a beating!
Our Scamp 16 has the larger two way frig (gas /or/ 120 volt) and we never travel with the gas on so we must do something with our cold stuff. When we travel we pack our cold stuff in a cooler using those blue freeze packs. When we setup at our new camp site we allow the frig to get down to safe temps, put the blue freeze packs in the upper freezer compartment and fill the shelves. The blue freezer packs re-freeze nicely and are ready for the next time we move sites. A good frig thermometer is very important for food safety.
All this sounds like extra work but we built it into our routine and never worry about the frig door opening or things shifting around.
I have an older 13 footer. My fridge has three way power. Propane/12V/120V. The fridge manufacturers seem to be moving away from the 12V option, I think because people would forget to take it off 12V when stopped and drain thier battery. The fancier of the new ones will automatically switch to propane when you stop and back to 12V when you start again and 120V when you plug in. Must be nice.
I've never seen an RV fridge that did not have a way to lock the door but I'm no expert. You might have the pin type but the pin is gone. If so is supposed to be on a short chain near the top, oppoaite the hinge.
Indeed mine has a door lock in the form of a plastic piece you swing in front of another plastic piece when traveling. I think I had it latched, but I've discovered I can give the latched door a fairly weak pull and it will still open. I'm planning to fortify the latch along with preventing the contents of the fridge from hitting the door.
The snow is on the ground here, so I'll have all winter to figure it out. (Looking on the bright side of snow and dark.)
The 3 way fridge on my '03 13 has a removable pin on the top of the door which keeps the door tightly closed when traveling. As long as I remember to put the pin in place before I hit the road, it works very nicely. It looks like a stock installation.
Bill in Seattle
Bill, Thank you for your response. I will check to see if I have the pin, however, I don't think I have that on my model.
Matt
On our 2017 13, I first took a wrench to the latch to bend it down so it firmly fit the “tang” on the door. This not only made it close securely, but allows me to use the half cock position that holds the door slightly open to air out between trips.
We found three shallow plastic trays that just fit the wire shelves. I drilled lots of 1-inch holes in the bottom to allow air circulation. The trays keep the contents from rolling around but can be removed to dig stuff out of the back.
While Scamping, we buy milk in pint bottles (like for lunches). These small and tough bottles can lie on their sides with no problem. They have screw lids.
Clyde & Cecile Bentley - C2B2
Although I don't have a scamp.........YET, I have an old shasta (?) that my kids use mostly but I do a lot of camping. As far as milk, if I buy it in a container that could possibly leak, I always transfer to some kind of bottle or jar I have saved that has a tight screw on lid. I made "new" shelves for my fridge by cutting to size that white closet shelving, put caps on the cut edge or it will scratch your fridge, put it in upside down so you have a little lip, helps hold things in. And the little plastic bins someone mentioned are great. Eggs always seem to take up space in the ice chest or fridge and are hard to transport but I love them and need them for cooking. So my remedy is to crack them all into a clean glass jar, the yoke won't break, they float in there intact until you need them. If you use a wide mouth jar you can easily use a spoon to take out an individual egg or if you use a smaller mouth jar, half dollar size or smaller the eggs will pour (plop) out one at a time.......well, sometimes two :) And yes you can still make fried eggs as they stay individual. There is some of the loser outer egg white that doesn't stay intact but a little of it comes out each time you pour anyway so it's pretty much even. You will be amazed at how little space a dozen eggs takes and no broken wasted eggs !!!! And if I want scrambled eggs I just give it a shake and add a little milk......waaalah !!! If you are using a really narrow mouth bottle you can get the eggs in with a fatter stemmed funnel and pretty much any kind of container will work................Happy scamping or camping :))))) They may not keep as long but I have never has any rotten eggs !
Our fridge door has never flown open. We can pack quite a bit of food in the small fridge. I like to have salads. I pack them in square Glad-type plastic containers, and leave the tomatoes whole. I use the super tiny containers for dressing and sit that inside the salad container. The tomatoes have a cushion on the lettuce, and the dressing doesn't take up any extra space. Cheese and meat are flat packages, and I usually have room to keep a loaf of bread in there too. I plug in the Scamp the night before we leave to get the fridge nice and cold (the 12V doesn't run as cold when we are on the road). We usually have a small cooler for cold drinks in the car, and load them as needed in the fridge once we are parked. We only go for a day or two though. If we did longer trips, I might be inclined to shell out $$$$ for a Yeti cooler. I don't usually take milk, and I just use it at home only occasionally. I buy plastic screw-top pint bottles of it. They could lay down in the fridge and are tough enough to probably take a beating!
Rhonda Riebow
Our Scamp 16 has the larger two way frig (gas /or/ 120 volt) and we never travel with the gas on so we must do something with our cold stuff. When we travel we pack our cold stuff in a cooler using those blue freeze packs. When we setup at our new camp site we allow the frig to get down to safe temps, put the blue freeze packs in the upper freezer compartment and fill the shelves. The blue freezer packs re-freeze nicely and are ready for the next time we move sites. A good frig thermometer is very important for food safety.
All this sounds like extra work but we built it into our routine and never worry about the frig door opening or things shifting around.
I have lots of strategy ideas for a multiple-pronged approach now. I appreciate all your suggestions and if you think of more, keep them coming.
Sarah
I have an older 13 footer. My fridge has three way power. Propane/12V/120V. The fridge manufacturers seem to be moving away from the 12V option, I think because people would forget to take it off 12V when stopped and drain thier battery. The fancier of the new ones will automatically switch to propane when you stop and back to 12V when you start again and 120V when you plug in. Must be nice.
I've never seen an RV fridge that did not have a way to lock the door but I'm no expert. You might have the pin type but the pin is gone. If so is supposed to be on a short chain near the top, oppoaite the hinge.
Indeed mine has a door lock in the form of a plastic piece you swing in front of another plastic piece when traveling. I think I had it latched, but I've discovered I can give the latched door a fairly weak pull and it will still open. I'm planning to fortify the latch along with preventing the contents of the fridge from hitting the door.
The snow is on the ground here, so I'll have all winter to figure it out. (Looking on the bright side of snow and dark.)
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