Hi, I have another question. I have a 1997 13' Scamp and discovered 2 windows that look like they are leaking. Can I just caulk aound them and if so, what should I use? I read somewhere about drilling out the weep holes. I'm not sure how to do that? Side note: I bought this Scamp last fall from this site and put it in storage the day after I got it. The person said one of the windows leaked and that they replaced it the day I picked it up, but now i'm not too sure that was true. I know nothing about campers, i've always been a tent person so am kind of disappointed and also at a loss at how to fix? I have yet to try the any of the mechanicals so fingers crossed nothing else is wrong with this. TIA for any help.
Tue, 06/16/2015 - 13:04
#1
Leaking windows
Hi Sue,
Window leaks are usually not too daunting to repair if they are NOT the front and rear plexi windows with the trim lok.
If it is the side windows they can usually be taken out fairly easily and clean-up then put new butyl tape around the flanges and remount.
Caulking is a temporary option, but it doesn't always look great. If you caulk never use silicone caulk on a fiberglass trailer. Use 3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4200, 05260, White, 3 oz
or a similar marine sealant.
The big front and rear plexi windows are a whole different issue. Those do have a notorious leak point though that is a simple fix if it involves that. At the bottom of those windows where the trim lok comes together in a seam, the seam shrinks and leaves a gap. You need to maintain a caulk/sealant in the gap area on both the front and rear window. If the trim lok seal around those windows is leaking, I would highly advise you contact a glass shop that handles trim lok and have them replace them.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Just realized this is the post I saw and that I remembered it backward, specifically bought silicone and now have a lovely afternoon with a razor blade ahead of me. Just to make sure I'm not an idiot, do you do butyl tape AND caulk or is the tape by itself enough (when paired with removing the old foam tape, resealing, etc) to keep the inside dry?
You seem very handy to me, just new to molded fiberglass, which we all are at some point.
if you do the butyl tape properly you don't need anything else for resetting windows. The key is to use enough so that it oozes out when you tighten the window. Then over the next 6 months it will continue to ooze out and you clean up the window perimeter with a plastic putty knife periodically.
I try to use only plastic knifes so as to not accidentally scar the gelcoat. When you get the bulk of the silicone down to the residue, sometimes goof off will help get the last of the residue.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Before you think of drilling the weep holes bigger, make sure the channels in the bottom part of the aluminum frame extrusion are clean. Over years dust and debris can accumulate and block the channels and holes. It is not hard to take the sliding panes out, you need to pull out the rubber U-shape profile out and then drop and tilt out the moving pane. When pulling out the rubber profile, slide the pane back and forth to help the process. Good luck.
-Paul
2004 Scamp 19 Deluxe,
2021 Tacoma, Double Cab, 6 cyl. 4WD
Colorado