13 Scamp Allure Plank Floor

30 posts / 0 new
Last post
salukispeed
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/20/2018 - 13:45
stainless

All the rivets, body bolts and acorn nuts on our 2019 13 are stainless and a pain to work with but quite strong.I have not seen many if any Aluminum ones.   

2019 Scamp 13 standard

ELongest
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 2 weeks ago
Lifetime Member
Joined: 11/02/2013 - 20:13
Front bench rivets

Scamp usually installs the bench rivets from inside the frig cabinet. Never seen a acorn nut under the front bench but not saying they might have started using them. Without the acorn nut I usually Dremmel off the end of the pop rivet and try to push in the rivet. When reinstalling I install the rivet from under the bench side.

Eddie

Tim E.
Tim E.'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/07/2020 - 16:55
Entry Threshold

Hey all - project is moving along well, all cabinets are out and the holding tank (geez that water line was gnarly...replacing that!).  

So next question - I removed the two wood screws holding the entry threshold down but it's still captured at the ends, one end is under the jam assembly.  Is there a trick to get the threshold out without removing the entire jam?  I hope so...thanks again!  Really appreciate the help.

ELongest
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 2 weeks ago
Lifetime Member
Joined: 11/02/2013 - 20:13
Two options

1. Leave it where it is. Bring your flooring to the edge of the threshold. You can seal the gap with clear or colored sealant. With such a small floor no expansion gap on one side is not a big deal. You can install the floor with out removing the screen door.

2. Use a multi tool and cut the threshold tight to the wall, lift the threshold and pull out the other end. You have to remove the screen door to do this. Then you have to undercut the threshold for your flooring and calk your cut. 

I usually go with option 1.

Eddie

Tim E.
Tim E.'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/07/2020 - 16:55
Sub-floor removal

Well since my last post, I have bigger issues.  I discovered wood rot in the upper deck, below the rear window and confirmed the window seal is the source of the leak.  

I've decided to replace the entire upper deck subfloor per all the great instructions and threads from this forum.  What I could use a little more help with is to visualize the process to remove the existing floor (then I should be able to reverse the process with less help, we'll see).  

The sub-floor is sandwiched by an upper tab, correct?  So I need to remove the entire upper lip of fiberglass I see from the interior by multi-tool or other methods?  This then exposes the sub-floor and next steps are to remove fasteners and unseat from lower tab?   If I'm close here, then how do you remove the good sub-floor from the lower tab without destroying the lower tab?  

Thanks everyone!

ELongest
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 2 weeks ago
Lifetime Member
Joined: 11/02/2013 - 20:13
Lower tabbing

Removing good wood from the lower tab can be a PIA. I usually cut the wood 1" from the wall and chisel or grind off the wood.  The other option if just the rear of the deck had rot, you can cut the floor from side to side usually about 8-12" from the back wall in good wood. With a router, multi tool and chisel make lap joint on the existing floor and one on your patch. Screw it, glue it and glass it in place. 

Eddie 

Tim E.
Tim E.'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/07/2020 - 16:55
What about wood filler or Bondo?

Thanks for the replies!  I'm leaning toward the patch and lap-joint idea but have to ask - what about carving out all the bad and in-filling with wood filler, Bondo or resin?  The area is rather small and the shell is resting nicely on the good subfloor and not the frame.

On a related note, I found the rear window was the source of water.  It's a newer window, not the solid plexiglass and I was able to remove, clean and apply new butyl tape and reinstall.  So...I'm pretty confident there is no more water intrusion if the above option is a realistic one.

thanks again - I do love safe places to ask stupid questions!

Tim E.
Tim E.'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/07/2020 - 16:55
What about wood filler or Bondo?

Some progress - new window seal but with a fresh dusting of ash from the fires in the Santa Cruz mountains. Still need to clean it up, but at least it's water tight.  

Ironically, the thunder and lightning that caused these fires, brought the rain that led me to the leaky window.  Anyone else ready for 2021?  

Thanks if anyone has thoughts on my last post re: filling the bad wood crevasse with "something."  Once I can work outside without an N-95 mask I'll be back on the project.

 

Be well 

Greg A
Greg A's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 14 hours ago
SOI-AdministratorLifetime Member
Joined: 11/02/2013 - 20:45
Floor Patch

Do you have a pic of the damaged area? If it's not too large and away from structural, I'd patch it with product similar to Bondo Wood Filler. Second choice would be to just remove damaged area and do the lap repair. Last choice would be to remove the deck and replace.

Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape

Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:

Fiberglass-RV-4Sale

Pages