The Greywater tank is screwed to the bottom of the upper rear floor with about 20 screws. Then two straps run under the tank for extra support and safety. The straps are bolted to the metal floor rear step up and to a 1" angle iron cross member welded between the rear frame rails. The cross member is about 2 ft. back from the step up. Maybe someone could measure how far the cross support is from the metal step up. I use wide metal banding for banding landscaping timbers for the tank straps.
It would be a lot easier to swap out the axle with the floor out, your welder will thank you .
Ok I didn't realize the grey was mounted under the floor, good to know.
Yeah yeah, I should be patient and get all of the underbelly stuff done while the floor is missing. I might even rip out the front bench and replace that floor as well (since the shell is resting on the frame up there as well).
I was considering the gray water tank, but I am also trying to keep weight to a minimum especially on the cantilevered rear dinette area. I also don't want to add any holes or penetrations to my newly installed sub-floor. So my thought is when and where a gray tank is required I can simply use a small barrel such as these. I see them for sale on craigslist all the time in every size imaginable. Ideally it only needs to be as big as my 12 gal fresh water tank. If biodegradable soap is used, I don't see the harm in dumping it in in an appropriate location or in my own septic at home.
Unless it's changed, the National Parks requirements were that it had to be a sealed container, you can't put the the grey water hose into an open bucket(open grey buckets attract critters). On our 13 Scamps we got a 5 gallon from Wally that the hose screwed on the cap so that the container was sealed and this met their requirements. Looks like some of those you have pictured could be fitted properly with the grey hose.
Prior to the install I jacked up the rear shell with a bottle jack and wood blocking from the rear bottom corners. I placed two layers of a paint stick between the frame and shell that I will later remove once the top tabs are installed.
I did in fact clean up the bottom tabs with a multi-tool, then sanded the tab and shell to promote adhesion. I vacuumed all dust and wiped with water. The next day (yesterday), I started the install by brushing on a light coat of west systems to the bottom tab to act as a primer for my thickened (peanut butter) epoxy adhesive layer that followed about 15 minutes later. (Note, I also used a caulk/adhesive to seal the edge of metal where the floor steps up from the center area) Once we positioned (2 ppl recommended) the new sub-floor in place I screwed down the step-up edge with self-tapping SS screws. I then crawled below and every 10" placed a small SS wood screw and SS washer to tighten up the seam between sub-floor and pre-existing tab. This made a huge difference as you can see the epoxy slowly squirting out from underneath when the screws were added. I used a plastic putty knife to smooth out any excess dripping epoxy to better create a smooth seam underneath. Believe it or not this all happened very quickly since the pot-life of the epoxy is quite short (12 min). After a quick break and with excitement I was very eager to continue working so I started filling the gap around the inside perimeter with my thickened epoxy. I took my time making small batches and used a plastic spoon to make a curved seam to the shell.
Next week I plan to sand and wash away any waxes from the epoxy surface and begin the new top tab. If anyone is not familiar with using epoxy be sure to understand your product. As for West Systems I am told if you allow it to cure fully between layers you should always wash away amine blush, which is a wax that comes to the surface during the curing process. If this is not removed your next layer will not properly adhere to the previous coat of cured epoxy. I always try to wash, sand, wash between cured layers.
Greg - I'm definitely going with vinyl for easy cleaning. Thinking a weathered wood plank pattern will spiff it up. I throw rug or welcome type mat will probably go in the center area and likely a dog bed under the table.
Check the Allure Vinyl planking installs in the modifications table of contents. Allure is much easier to work with and probably a bit better flooring than the peel n stick. Cost should be relatively similar. Great time to do it while everything is out and you can go wall to wall with it. Can't wait to see this Scamp come together.
Looks good. FWIW West Systems uses several hardeners for different kick times. I use the fast set hardener during the winter when the shop is cold. In the summer and when you need a longer kick time for assembly you can use a slower setting hardener.
I'm currently in the process of replacing my rear floor as well. How much epoxy do I need? Should I get the quart or the gallon of West Systems 105 epoxy resin?
The Greywater tank is screwed to the bottom of the upper rear floor with about 20 screws. Then two straps run under the tank for extra support and safety. The straps are bolted to the metal floor rear step up and to a 1" angle iron cross member welded between the rear frame rails. The cross member is about 2 ft. back from the step up. Maybe someone could measure how far the cross support is from the metal step up. I use wide metal banding for banding landscaping timbers for the tank straps.
It would be a lot easier to swap out the axle with the floor out, your welder will thank you .
Ok I didn't realize the grey was mounted under the floor, good to know.
Yeah yeah, I should be patient and get all of the underbelly stuff done while the floor is missing. I might even rip out the front bench and replace that floor as well (since the shell is resting on the frame up there as well).
Thanks!
I was considering the gray water tank, but I am also trying to keep weight to a minimum especially on the cantilevered rear dinette area. I also don't want to add any holes or penetrations to my newly installed sub-floor. So my thought is when and where a gray tank is required I can simply use a small barrel such as these. I see them for sale on craigslist all the time in every size imaginable. Ideally it only needs to be as big as my 12 gal fresh water tank. If biodegradable soap is used, I don't see the harm in dumping it in in an appropriate location or in my own septic at home.
Unless it's changed, the National Parks requirements were that it had to be a sealed container, you can't put the the grey water hose into an open bucket(open grey buckets attract critters). On our 13 Scamps we got a 5 gallon from Wally that the hose screwed on the cap so that the container was sealed and this met their requirements. Looks like some of those you have pictured could be fitted properly with the grey hose.
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I installed the new rear sub-floor on my 13'.
Prior to the install I jacked up the rear shell with a bottle jack and wood blocking from the rear bottom corners. I placed two layers of a paint stick between the frame and shell that I will later remove once the top tabs are installed.
I did in fact clean up the bottom tabs with a multi-tool, then sanded the tab and shell to promote adhesion. I vacuumed all dust and wiped with water. The next day (yesterday), I started the install by brushing on a light coat of west systems to the bottom tab to act as a primer for my thickened (peanut butter) epoxy adhesive layer that followed about 15 minutes later. (Note, I also used a caulk/adhesive to seal the edge of metal where the floor steps up from the center area) Once we positioned (2 ppl recommended) the new sub-floor in place I screwed down the step-up edge with self-tapping SS screws. I then crawled below and every 10" placed a small SS wood screw and SS washer to tighten up the seam between sub-floor and pre-existing tab. This made a huge difference as you can see the epoxy slowly squirting out from underneath when the screws were added. I used a plastic putty knife to smooth out any excess dripping epoxy to better create a smooth seam underneath. Believe it or not this all happened very quickly since the pot-life of the epoxy is quite short (12 min). After a quick break and with excitement I was very eager to continue working so I started filling the gap around the inside perimeter with my thickened epoxy. I took my time making small batches and used a plastic spoon to make a curved seam to the shell.
Next week I plan to sand and wash away any waxes from the epoxy surface and begin the new top tab. If anyone is not familiar with using epoxy be sure to understand your product. As for West Systems I am told if you allow it to cure fully between layers you should always wash away amine blush, which is a wax that comes to the surface during the curing process. If this is not removed your next layer will not properly adhere to the previous coat of cured epoxy. I always try to wash, sand, wash between cured layers.
Looks great. You'll be able to start putting it all back together soon. Are you putting in new carpet or vinyl flooring throughout?
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Greg - I'm definitely going with vinyl for easy cleaning. Thinking a weathered wood plank pattern will spiff it up. I throw rug or welcome type mat will probably go in the center area and likely a dog bed under the table.
Check the Allure Vinyl planking installs in the modifications table of contents. Allure is much easier to work with and probably a bit better flooring than the peel n stick. Cost should be relatively similar. Great time to do it while everything is out and you can go wall to wall with it. Can't wait to see this Scamp come together.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Looks good. FWIW West Systems uses several hardeners for different kick times. I use the fast set hardener during the winter when the shop is cold. In the summer and when you need a longer kick time for assembly you can use a slower setting hardener.
I'm currently in the process of replacing my rear floor as well. How much epoxy do I need? Should I get the quart or the gallon of West Systems 105 epoxy resin?
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