FWIW - I would probably buy a gallon of the 105 Resin, then buy a couple of the smaller A - size hardener in both 205 Fast and 206 Slow. I also used one container of the the West Systems - Microfibers to help thicken it when filling gaps and made a bead of adhesive on the lower tab. This worked very well. (BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH THE MICROFIBERS. PROTECT YOUR SKIN, EYES, AND WEAR A GOOD MASK. Also make sure there is no wind, pets or kids nearby)
I used exactly two containers of the quart sized 105-A Resin and 205-A Fast Hardener. For better value I should have just bought the gallon size instead. I was able to get 2-3 coats on both sides of the plywood and do all adhering with top and bottom tabs. I was very generous with the epoxy when installing the top tab.
I have been talking ot another Scamp renovator and have a question. You jack up the shell, lay in the floor and glass it in. In the process of doing that do you not expose the rear edge of the plywood floor below the shell yet above the frame rail? I have had two scamps and have never noticed exposed OSB or plywood between the body and frame. Is it just cleverly hidden behind the black trim? I just finished replacing my floor and noticed its more or less letting the shell rest on the frame.
I haven’t yet had a chance to glass my floor down but I’ll be doing it this week, good timing. The wood floor will be slightly lower and be very slightly exposed in my case. This may not be the “factory setting” but I want to be sure the shell isn’t bouncing directly on the metal any longer. I say bouncing, obviously it won’t be bouncing, but you get the idea.
From my quick glance below, being even with the black trim may be the way it was but I’m just going a little overboard.
I plan on using wood shims to put between the shell and the trailer rail. Then glass the floor (using a thickener and slow hardener) to the remaining lower flange (that I left when cutting the original out) and glassing it up the wall on the top of the floor.
Also I’ve heard that people screw the remaining lower flange to the floor while it dries to make sure it’s pressed. I may do that depending on how it looks after I slap the floor down on all of this.
I hadn't considered allowing the floor to be exposed below to shell We glassed ours two weeks ago. It was fun doing the inside. A nightmare on the bottom. Most of the original bottom tab broke off so we had to basically redo tabs top and bottom. 3M 77 spray adhesive helped hold cloth and matting while we saturated with resin. It was still a PITA. We did the peanut butter consistency resin on the parts of the old tab we kept, screwed it down and ultimately, though not beautiful, it'll do. We also created a thick fillet (baby powder makes a great thickening agent) all the way around on the interior before laying in the new mat, followed by cloth.
shell is separated from the frame because of shell cracking and overall poor condition. I now have my redone trailer/frame underneath and realize I have no witness marks to line up shell just rough numbers on the old subfloor in pictures on my phone , like 22 and 1/2" with an arrow. Is there a Scamp remodeling God who could Give me advice Trying to re center the shell.? Thanks
FWIW - I would probably buy a gallon of the 105 Resin, then buy a couple of the smaller A - size hardener in both 205 Fast and 206 Slow. I also used one container of the the West Systems - Microfibers to help thicken it when filling gaps and made a bead of adhesive on the lower tab. This worked very well. (BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH THE MICROFIBERS. PROTECT YOUR SKIN, EYES, AND WEAR A GOOD MASK. Also make sure there is no wind, pets or kids nearby)
I used exactly two containers of the quart sized 105-A Resin and 205-A Fast Hardener. For better value I should have just bought the gallon size instead. I was able to get 2-3 coats on both sides of the plywood and do all adhering with top and bottom tabs. I was very generous with the epoxy when installing the top tab.
Thanks! I'll buy the gallon sized 105-B with the 206-B slow hardener. It's in the 80-90s down here in NC.
I have been talking ot another Scamp renovator and have a question. You jack up the shell, lay in the floor and glass it in. In the process of doing that do you not expose the rear edge of the plywood floor below the shell yet above the frame rail? I have had two scamps and have never noticed exposed OSB or plywood between the body and frame. Is it just cleverly hidden behind the black trim? I just finished replacing my floor and noticed its more or less letting the shell rest on the frame.
I haven’t yet had a chance to glass my floor down but I’ll be doing it this week, good timing. The wood floor will be slightly lower and be very slightly exposed in my case. This may not be the “factory setting” but I want to be sure the shell isn’t bouncing directly on the metal any longer. I say bouncing, obviously it won’t be bouncing, but you get the idea.
From my quick glance below, being even with the black trim may be the way it was but I’m just going a little overboard.
I plan on using wood shims to put between the shell and the trailer rail. Then glass the floor (using a thickener and slow hardener) to the remaining lower flange (that I left when cutting the original out) and glassing it up the wall on the top of the floor.
Also I’ve heard that people screw the remaining lower flange to the floor while it dries to make sure it’s pressed. I may do that depending on how it looks after I slap the floor down on all of this.
I hadn't considered allowing the floor to be exposed below to shell We glassed ours two weeks ago. It was fun doing the inside. A nightmare on the bottom. Most of the original bottom tab broke off so we had to basically redo tabs top and bottom. 3M 77 spray adhesive helped hold cloth and matting while we saturated with resin. It was still a PITA. We did the peanut butter consistency resin on the parts of the old tab we kept, screwed it down and ultimately, though not beautiful, it'll do. We also created a thick fillet (baby powder makes a great thickening agent) all the way around on the interior before laying in the new mat, followed by cloth.
My 1977 13' Scamp
shell is separated from the frame because of shell cracking and overall poor condition. I now have my redone trailer/frame underneath and realize I have no witness marks to line up shell just rough numbers on the old subfloor in pictures on my phone , like 22 and 1/2" with an arrow. Is there a Scamp remodeling God who could Give me advice Trying to re center the shell.? Thanks
<p>Patrick</p>
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