Hi All,
I recently bought my first camper, a 2000 Scamp 13. Unfortunately I found some severe rot along the entire back 6" of the dining area floor due to a window or spare tire bolt leaking. I decided it is best to replace the entire dining subfloor as one piece. My question pertains to the joint at the wheel wells. Should I have the new plywood butt up to the vertical face of the wheel well or should I undercut the wheel well so the new subfloor slides in under it. I feel going under it provides better structural advantages, but not sure if it's possible to slide a one piece floor into place with the shell on the frame.
I'm using 3/4" exterior AC plywood and West Systems for glassing in perimeter.
Thanks and very happy to have found this site!
Also my rear shell is resting on the frame due to the floor rot. How much gap should I allow between the frame and shell?
I've heard about 1/16" gap between the frame and the shell. I have the same issue on mine and asked some owners on Facebook for that answer.
As for under the wheel well, I'm planning on attaching the plywood the same way it was taken off (on the side). I am going to make sure to get as much of the "tab" off the top and bottom before reglassing everything. Notice that most of the side of the wheel well is lost when I tore out the old wood, so I guess technically it's going to be placed below (and might be easier when attempting to remove that old wood).
You can hold the shell up with 2X4's placed between the frame rails and belly band. If you have a mounted spare you can pry up under the spare to lift the shell a bit. If no spare is mounted you can place a 2 by across the frame rails and use a hyd. jack and wood to spread the load under the belly band to lift the shell a bit. A multi tool does good at cleaning the wood off the lower tabbing.
Eddie
Fantastic thank you. I was thinking similar thoughts around the clean up. I didn't think about the belly band trick, I was actually planning to lift and wedge a shim under where the shell meets the frame now. But I assume the belly band would be a better structural choice.
Ok this is some great info. Since my original post I have since cut away the top fiberglass tab and left the bottom tab as shown in the picture. I have also dry fit the new plywood floor and coated it with two coats of West Systems Epoxy. I also sanded and painted the steel frame.
My next question - What is the method to adhere the new floor to the existing bottom tab? Should I just mix up some West Systems and pour it on the bottom tab before placing the new subfloor on top of it? Is there a method to clamp or screw it all together? I understand building a new top tab, but not sure on the exact steps to reuse the bottom tab?
West system makes fillers that you mix with the epoxy. You mix it with the resin to a peanut butter consistency. You apply it to the lower tab and lower the floor in place. Sand the gloss off of the edge contact area of your floor bottom. Also apply an adhesive sealant to the metal lip next to the lower floor. I use 1 5/8 self tapping wood to metal screws to screw the floor to the frame. You need to drill a small pilot hole for the wood to metal screws.
Once the floor is lowered onto the lower tab you might want to use some self tapping duct screws to hold the tabbing tight to the wood. It also helps if the body is held up off the frame rails with two 2x4's during bonding.
Eddie
http://www.westsystem.com/filler-selection-guide/
I used 406.
Thanks for the detailed info for re-assembly. I am painting the framing today afterwork and going to attempt to hoist the shell about 1/8-1/4" off the frame. Tomorrow I will be setting in the new subfloor. I was able to purchase the West Systems 403 Microfibers for a thickener.
Hopefully all goes well. I'll try to follow up in a few days.
measure from the shell to the bottom of the belly band, cut 2x4's 1/8" to 1/4" longer than the distance. Place one end of the 2x4 under the belly band and the other on the frame rail. Sometimes you can just be pushed in at the bottom to set in place. Or after making sure the spare is tight against the trailer I have placed a 2x4 across the bumper and pried up on the spare to slightly lift the shell. On another trailer W/O spare I placed a board across the frame rails used a jack with a 2x10 or 12 to lift under the belly band. If you use the jack allow for the board across the frame rails. Just take it slow.
Eddie
When you dry fit the floor take a magic marker and mark your frame rail locations under your floor. You can make pilot holes in the wood before installing and drill the metal frame after the floor is in place. If you ever think you might want a greywater tank you need to add a metal cross member between the frame rails. Now is the time to do it. IMO the tank is well worth the money. The Feds. are are enforcing rules and writing tickets on greywater disposal when dry camping in the national forests.
Eddie
Thanks for the tip, I wasn't thinking about marking the frame on the floor before placing it. I'm hoping to put the floor down for good in the next couple days. I've been stuck in my progress for the last week or so because of bad weather (rain and/or heat) but I was able to get the floor coated with the epoxy. I have to sand the lower tab yet.
For the greywater, I'm thinking I would want the grey eventually. Even if I don't have a freshwater tank, I'd probably want the grey. Are you saying I should weld a cross member between the two frame beams leading to the rear bumper? What is the reasoning for this, I assumed the grey water would have been around the same size as the fresh but on the driver side (opposite of the fresh). From what I guess (just from memory) the frame beams are under that section already... does the cross member prevent some sort of twisting?
It also crossed my mind to get the axle replaced while the floor is off, but I'm just really excited to get this thing placed :)
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