Hello fellow Scampers, 

We are working on fixing the furnace on our newly acquired 1994 Scamp, a 16 Foot Model 4.  We found it doesn't ignite.  The fan works, but no ignition.  I'm pretty sure there's no spark on the igniter.  The furnace is a Suburban NT-12SE.  I bought a tune-up kit from pdxrvwholesale.com which includes the limit switch, the sail switch, the igniter, two gaskets, the orifice, and the burner assembly.  To install all the components, I had to remove the furnace.  But some prior owner had replaced the propane line from the splitter to the furnace.  And that's where I'm stuck at this stage of the problem.

At the "tee" splitter, the source comes in and then goes to the stove, the fridge, and the furnace.  The source line, the fridge, and the stove are all copper (including the tee). But the prior owner had used a flexible gas hose line to replace the original copper line.  And that yellow coated gas line has a tag that warns you not to use it on RV's or trailers.  Elsewhere on the tag it warns of possible breakage or leaks that can be caused by "excessive vibration" (although it does exclude vibration from gas dryers and other fixed appliances in a house or permanently located motor home).  And camper trailers certainly do vibrate a lot as they get pulled down highways and roads and trails.

I went to both Lowes and Menards (there's no nearby RV store), and neither has a proper fix.  Even if I wanted to risk another flexible tube gas line, all the ones for ranges have 1/2" or larger outside diameters (O.D.), whereas the furnace and tee connectors are both 3/8" O.D., so I would have to use a reducer to connect them (and that's also a space issue where it connects to the furnace).  I did buy a 5 foot 3/8" O.D. copper coil at Lowes, but neither store has the coarse thread flare fittings needed so I can put the fitting on the copper, then flare the copper out before connecting it.  The other issue is that the valve fitting I have to connect to is roughly within about 2" of the fiberglass wall, and of course the wall bends inward at the outside edge.  Which means there is both little room to work and the line always has to be disconnected to remove the furnace, and reconnected afterwards.  It's a tight fit.  And no, I don't have the proper copper bending tool or flaring tool either, so I'll have to buy or borrow those.  

So please help!  Has anyone else here had to deal with this situation before?  I sure could use some good suggestions!  

Thank you, Chuck