Howdy All,
So last weekend I purchased a '77 Scamp 13. I've been looking for one for a while, finally found one in my price range. So is there any general guidance on what to inspect or look for? This is going to be a project. All the windows leak, so I put some fresh silicone caulk around them, hoping that will hold. Next on my list is to check the bearings, then look at the electrical. Any other recomendations?
Thanks,
Todd
Congrats Todd on your New (to you) Scamp !!!
What do I fix first, really depends on what your trailer needs and how soon you plan to use it.
I would start with On-Road safety first. Wheel Bearings would top the list, because, if they go bad you are stranded on the side of the road. While you are at it, you need to inspect your Brakes (and adjust), Drums and Magnets. Follow this with a thorough inspection of your Tires and Wheels, pay close attention to the Tire Manufacturing date, if your tires are over 5 years old it is generally a good idea to replace them.
While you are working on the Bearings, etc., continue with the outside of the trailer, check the Coupler to ensure it is functioning properly and nothing is bent or broken, ensure the chains are in good shape and are long (or short) enough for your Tow Vehicle. Check the tongue jack and lubricate, if necessary, also, inspect/lube any stabilizer jacks you may have.
Inspect the Propane tank(s) and make sure they are mounted properly and safely. By-the-way, your tanks have an "expiration" date on them, after this "expiration" date you will need to have them re-certified before they can be filled. Be sure you are not out on a trip when that "expiration" date passes because you will not be filling those tanks without re-certification. It's probably easier to just buy new tanks or use one of those tank exchange programs.
Next would be weather tightness, this could be the first area to work on depending on your particular trailer. Check the windows and doors and any roof openings. On the Scamps you also need to check the Snap Caps and/or Belly Rivets for leakage. In your case, you have already (temporarily) caulked the leaky windows, you will need to permenantly repair the windows by removing them and re-installing them using the correct sealing techniques.
Check the Awning and clean/repair as needed.
Moving to the inside, I would pay Special Attention to the Fridge. Shut it off until you have time to thoroughly verify it's SAFE Operation. Additionally, I would ensure that the Propane is also turned off until you can thoroughly check the system for leaks and proper operation.
Now, with the Refrigerator and Propane both turned off, I would check the electrical systems. Check the 12v first and then check the 120v system. Thoroughly check the Battery and replace it if necessary. Check the lights and accessories. Next, check to see that the Tow Vehicle is able to charge the battery while towing. While you have the trailer plugged into the TV check the tail, brake and side marker lights on the trailer. By-the-way, be sure your Brake Controller is properly adjusted, especially, if you adjusted the brakes while you were working on the Bearings.
Before I tested the 120v Electrical system, I would check the Propane system, be certain there are no leaks and the furnace and stove are functioning properly.
Check the 120v system, be sure the battery is being charged while you are connected to shore power. Check any 120v appliances. This is when I would check the Refrigerator operation. First, be certain the outside fridge compartment is cleaned out and there is no foreign matter inside the compartment. Verify the fridge is operational on 120v power.
Next, disconnect the shore power and test the fridge operation on Propane.
Check the water systems next. Check the white water tank and operation of the water pump and all the sink(s) and the toilet. Next you will want to check your Grey and Black water tank(s) for any leaks, you will also want to fill both tanks (at least 2/3 full) and dump them to see if there are any problems.
That pretty much covers the onboard systems, the rest is cleaning and fixing your new-to-you camper the way you like.
As always...
Happy Scamping !!!
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
Hi Todd and welcome to the Clubhouse! Can't wait to see some pictures of your find.
First tip when working on Molded Fiberglass Travel Trailers. Stay away from Silicone sealers. I can't begin to go into the amount of silicone sealer messes from previous owners I have had to spend hours cleaning and resealing properly with either Butyl Tape
and or 3M Marine Sealant
I have a bathroom vent right now on my Escape trailer that I have to get a picture up here of the silicone sealer mess. And guess what? It still leaks, which is one of the big reasons why you don't want to use silicone sealers on molded fiberglass trailers.
However, your Scamp front and rear windows are plexi-glass and require a special molding called Trim Lock. It sounds like the Trim Lock molding may be decayed or missing. You can order Trim Lock and the special tool to attempt to install it yourself from Scamp Trailers parts dept. I will give you a warning that this is not a job for the faint of heart. I have done a front and rear window in a 13 Scamp and will probably never do that again. Glass shops in your area can probably get the job done for you.
The rest of the windows and vents have to be removed, cleaned and then reinstalled correctly with the Butyl Tape. I pulled every window and vent in my 13 Scamp, whether they leaked or not and reinstalled correctly with fresh Butyl Tape. I'm not a fan of finding out my windows leak in a SW Monsoon Storm at 2am.
You will also want to read this post on replacing rivets and snap caps, especially on an older model Scamp that is a leaker.
All the SOI Members are here for you and we'll help you walk through whatever you need help with. Let;s get that Scamp up and running and at a Scamp Camp!
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Thanks for all the info! Due to work and weather I haven't had a chance to do much yet. Hopefully it will cool off soon and I can really get to work. I did run some silicone around the windows, there was already plenty there - in spots! Haven't had a chance to see if that works yet. And now I can prepare myself for the bigger project of taking them all out and re-installing.
I pulled the propane tank off. The lines look....old. Not going to use propane until I can re-plumb the entire thing.
Has anyone written up how to take out the windows and re-install them? The quick approach of two more layers of silicone slowed but didn't stop the leaks. I need to get the leaks stopped, it's the first item on my punch list. And I have no idea how to do it.
I'd start with getting an estimate from a local glass shop that can do new lock-strip. I have done the front and rear windows myself and can walk you through it, but if I ever had to do it again, I would have a glass shop do it. I have an old write-up on my experience with doing it myself, and if I can find it I'll post it.
Good time to replace the plexi windows if you need to. Scamp parts department can help you with all the parts if you want to tackle it yourself, however, I can't emphasize enough that if you have a local glass shop that is reasonable I'd have them take care of it.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Thanks Greg.
I'll have to look around at glass shops. I'm assuming I'd need to get the scamp parts for them? And does the fiberglass cause any issues? Or is it pretty standard stuff for a glass shop?
Hey Todd,
Here are really good videos on how it is done:
Installing Scamp Front and Rear windows
Glass shop will have all the gasket, lockstrip and even can cut new plexi or lexan windows for you. Scamp parts department can also get you most of the parts. I have a link in the above post to get the lockstrip tool.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
My new to me Scamp had a front window leak it was because the gasket shrunk and left a 1/4” gap at the bottom. I used (RV GOOP) I did it in two steps first just applied it to the leak area second I used masking tape put across the leaking area filled the gap with goop. After 24 hour drying time I tested with a garden hose wash, no more leak this stuff stays pliable after drying and is uv resistant. Also fixed my water leak from my outside water tank filler.
2002. 16ft Deluxe layout A
2015 Chevy Traverse LT 3.6L
I am a girl and I replaced the seals on both front and back windows without any help - the first took about an hour since I went slowly as I was unsure of just how much pressure was required with the lockstrip tool. The second window took about 30 minutes start to finish.
I wouldn't hesitate to just replace them if the rubber is old and dried out - one of my windows had a 1/2" gap in the seal from shrinkage and the rubber was very hard and brittle on both of them.