Here is a link to the Reflectix page with some interesting information. I think they explain well the business about air spaces, direction of heat flow, etc.
The insulation in the Scamps is much less than R15. That number is what is possible to achieve if the proper air spaces are provided. That is not the case in any of these fiberglass campers. How it is presented by the salesmen is another story. The Scamp wall is fiberglass, Reflectix and the Marine Headliner, aka the Rat Fur. Those layers act together and all I could say that even on cold nights the walls do not feel too cold. The windows and the aluminum frames feel very cold and have condensation. (By the way aluminum is one of the best conductors of heat, after silver, copper, gold, graphite). I've discovered that the biggest loss of heat is through the roof vents and windows and when traveling in spring/autumn, I sometimes cover them with material that has velcro strips to hold it to the rat fur.
You'll be fine for short term drops in the 20's if it warms back up in the day. These trailers aren't 4 season trailers and are not meant for long term below freezing temperatures. If you keep the trailer systems winterized you could extend the stay a bit in below freezing temps but you'll need a good heater and bedding. In the Molded Fiberglass world Bigfoot offered a 4 season trailer option that included heated enclosed tanks and plumbing and I believe if I recall Oliver offers a true 4 season package. Escape trailers offers dual pane windows, extra insulation, and foam under spray options but are not 4 season trailers. Scamps, Casitas, and the rest are not insulated for winter camping.
Yes, you are so right Greg! Sadly, we have just 2 trips left, maybe 3 and its winterization time! I just hate this time of year even thinking about it. I so envy western owners who get a full year of use out of their Scamps. A huge part of American owners are dong what I am doing soon!
We were up at Zion last year and it was dipping down to the 20s at night,but everthing stayed ok.Course it was warming up during the days and we did have the furnace going,so it took it for awhile without freezing up on us
At what temperature should one actually panic? We are in Arizona with our 13 w/bathroom and it is 25 degrees at 5 am. We have the doors to the bathroom, closets and under sink open to let air circulate but is that enough?
To follow-up: We had just checked in to the park and didn't have the graywater drain hooked up yet. The water in the hose outside did freeze but the hose survivied and everything inside is OK. The same temp is expected tonight so we'll do the same things plus trickle water after midnite till morning and we should be OK.
Much of your water system is outside under the RV. If you are in a campground I would dump it and use the facilities on site, a little RV antifreeze down the shower would protect the under belly shower pump and filter.
I cannot imagine there being enough insulation and there is zero for the gray-water and blackwater system so you might keep the water flowing but the drains would all freeze. Also, the water stoarge tank in under the dinette in th back and does not get much heat if any. Maybe if you lifte the cusion and the hatch cover during the day or installed an vent into that are it might work. I think it better to forget the water system, put a collapsible sink in the sink, a seperating toilet in the shower and bring your water in containers that are kept inside the heated part of the trailer. You'll still need some additional insulation, especially the windows, that you can put up at night. My wife also sewed some quilted wall covering with insultation and velcro that we attach on the walls around the dinette bed, that helps a lot. Good luck with it and keep the heater running!
Here is a link to the Reflectix page with some interesting information. I think they explain well the business about air spaces, direction of heat flow, etc.
http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage.asp?PageIndex=389
The insulation in the Scamps is much less than R15. That number is what is possible to achieve if the proper air spaces are provided. That is not the case in any of these fiberglass campers. How it is presented by the salesmen is another story. The Scamp wall is fiberglass, Reflectix and the Marine Headliner, aka the Rat Fur. Those layers act together and all I could say that even on cold nights the walls do not feel too cold. The windows and the aluminum frames feel very cold and have condensation. (By the way aluminum is one of the best conductors of heat, after silver, copper, gold, graphite). I've discovered that the biggest loss of heat is through the roof vents and windows and when traveling in spring/autumn, I sometimes cover them with material that has velcro strips to hold it to the rat fur.
-Paul
2004 Scamp 19 Deluxe,
2021 Tacoma, Double Cab, 6 cyl. 4WD
Colorado
Olive,
You'll be fine for short term drops in the 20's if it warms back up in the day. These trailers aren't 4 season trailers and are not meant for long term below freezing temperatures. If you keep the trailer systems winterized you could extend the stay a bit in below freezing temps but you'll need a good heater and bedding. In the Molded Fiberglass world Bigfoot offered a 4 season trailer option that included heated enclosed tanks and plumbing and I believe if I recall Oliver offers a true 4 season package. Escape trailers offers dual pane windows, extra insulation, and foam under spray options but are not 4 season trailers. Scamps, Casitas, and the rest are not insulated for winter camping.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Yes, you are so right Greg! Sadly, we have just 2 trips left, maybe 3 and its winterization time! I just hate this time of year even thinking about it. I so envy western owners who get a full year of use out of their Scamps. A huge part of American owners are dong what I am doing soon!
<p>Doug Allen 2016 Ford F-150 2018 Lance 1575</p>
We were up at Zion last year and it was dipping down to the 20s at night,but everthing stayed ok.Course it was warming up during the days and we did have the furnace going,so it took it for awhile without freezing up on us
Launey and Earlene
At what temperature should one actually panic? We are in Arizona with our 13 w/bathroom and it is 25 degrees at 5 am. We have the doors to the bathroom, closets and under sink open to let air circulate but is that enough?
Ric Lied
To follow-up: We had just checked in to the park and didn't have the graywater drain hooked up yet. The water in the hose outside did freeze but the hose survivied and everything inside is OK. The same temp is expected tonight so we'll do the same things plus trickle water after midnite till morning and we should be OK.
Ric Lied
Much of your water system is outside under the RV. If you are in a campground I would dump it and use the facilities on site, a little RV antifreeze down the shower would protect the under belly shower pump and filter.
I cannot imagine there being enough insulation and there is zero for the gray-water and blackwater system so you might keep the water flowing but the drains would all freeze. Also, the water stoarge tank in under the dinette in th back and does not get much heat if any. Maybe if you lifte the cusion and the hatch cover during the day or installed an vent into that are it might work. I think it better to forget the water system, put a collapsible sink in the sink, a seperating toilet in the shower and bring your water in containers that are kept inside the heated part of the trailer. You'll still need some additional insulation, especially the windows, that you can put up at night. My wife also sewed some quilted wall covering with insultation and velcro that we attach on the walls around the dinette bed, that helps a lot. Good luck with it and keep the heater running!
Rick
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