Rear dinette floor replacement

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Last seen: 4 years 10 months ago
Joined: 03/04/2018 - 10:02
Rear dinette floor replacement

Hello there.  My wife and I have been Scamp owners for about five years and have upsized from sa 13 standard w/o bathroom to a 19 deluxe layout 2.  In that transition we went from a trailer we bought new to one that has had a number of previous owners and has probably seen better days.  We got a good deal on it and I am a handy type person with more than my fair share of patience (ask my wife.)  I bought our new trailer knowing that it would need some floor work but, I don't have the experience to know just how much I need to replace.  There is rot in the OSB along the rear of the shell, primarily where the frame fails extend to the bumper.  On one side the rot is bad enough to faintly see light, and on the other it's nearly as bad.  99% of the osb is in good shape.  However, since the wood is tabbed to the trailer and is a supporting structural element, I assume that this is a particularly bad spot to have the damage.  On looks alone, the shell has settled onto the frame, not the 1/16" gap I believe it should be, and is when I look at the front by the landing gear.  I'd say the damage extends back 4-5 inches from the shell.  I'll try and attach some images, but I'm new so you may have to bear with me.  I've done some digging and read a few of the threads more than a couple times and have come up with an order of operations that I'd like some feedback on if y'all have the time.  

1. Remove table and dinette along with fresh water holding tank, pump and electrical gear as best I can.  

2. Trace existing floor to be replaced on cardboard, then remove old section.

3. Replace using 5/8" exterior plywood, cut to fit and check for fit.

4. Coat replacement using Western Systems (WS) 105 resin and 206 hardener all over.  

5. Clean up bottom tabs with a multi-tool and remove top with an angle grinder with a brush.

6. Jack up the shell using 2x4s positioned between the belly band and the frame rails, lifting from the spare with a floor jack. 

7. Prime lower tabs with resin, wait, then apply epoxy of WS resin, hardener and microfiber mixed to a peanut butter consistency to the lower tab.  Install replacement floor and attach beginning at front step using stainless steel screws and washers, then from below through lower tab into new floor.  

8. After allowing it to set, sand and clean up mating surfaces and use WS resin, hardener  and strips of mat to reinforce lower tab onto new floor from below and create a new tab from above to the shell.  Allow to cure.  

9.  Drill holes through new floor for tubes, but use oversize bit then, tape, fill and let cure with resin.  Drill through resin with appropriate size bit and reinstall all water/electrical/dinette/table and remove 2x4 supports.  

If you've read this far I thank you!!!!!!!

Now, should I use exterior plywood or osb?  

Looking at the pix I have attached and assuming the rest of the current osb is in good shape, should I replace the entire dinette floor or just the back foot or so?  

Thanks in advance for any and all advice!


Last seen: 1 year 3 weeks ago
Lifetime Member
Joined: 11/02/2013 - 20:13
Floor reply

Oversize holes and fill for the screws is overkill on a Scamp floor. This is usually used for cored fiberglass (Boat decks or Casita floors.) Never seen any problem on Scamp floors. I use wood to metal self tapping countersunk screws. You will need to drill a small pilot hole for the self tapping screw.

The trailer is made with polyester resin so polyester will work OK. I sometimes use West Epoxy resin, you have more control over set times with the different hardners. Once you use epoxy you have to stay with epoxy. 

I use exterior rated plywood 5/8" I think is 4 green bars for ID markings. Some S-19 I have seen 3/4" wood used on the upper floors. Measure what you have at a good location and go with what you have.

I have replaced the last 8-12" all the way across the back in a couple of trailers. I join the floor with a 3/4" dado joint (lap joint). Near the walls you have to work the old floor wood joint by hand. I use Gorilla Glue since it foams and fills any gaps. I also use counter sunkwood screws on the dado joint.

When making you template I rough cut a piece of lauan and hot glue 1" wide pieces of cardboard to the lauan edges to get the contour. Easier to deal with than all cardboard template.

FWIW: It takes me about the same time and effort for me to patch or replace the whole dance floor. 




Last seen: 4 years 10 months ago
Joined: 03/04/2018 - 10:02
Thanks for the reply

Well, it sounds like I'll be replacing the whole shebang since I'll be in there.   I appreciate the advice on cored fiberglass, that'll save me some effort.  As far as the self taping screws and pilot holes, would that be pilots through the wood, metal or both?   

For the resin, will I run into future trouble going with the West Epoxy over polyester if I need to do work on other parts of the floor adjacent to the section I am replacing? 

Thanks also for the lauan recommendation.  That does sound easier.  

Last seen: 2 years 6 months ago
Lifetime Member
Joined: 09/03/2015 - 12:58
I can't say that I wouldn't

I can't say that I wouldn't replace the whole dance floor in your situation, but I would proceed with caution. The hardest thing I found in floor repair was removing solid good wood from where it is attached to the trailer shell. Rotten wood comes out no problem. Questionable wood isn't too bad. Good solid wood that you really don't need to replace is freaking hard to get out when you are being careful about not damaging the shell.

I've only done floor repairs once, so I would pay more attention to what Eddie says than what I say, but just thought I'd throw it out there so you aren't scratching your head when you run up against it. The bad sections make it seem so easy. 

Last seen: 4 years 10 months ago
Joined: 03/04/2018 - 10:02
Dry fittig the new floor

I really appreciate the advice so far.  I have removed the water tank, electrical box, dinette benches and table.  I have lifted up the rat fur and insulation and don't see any obvious sign of leakage.  I still suspect it originated from below.  The work has been slow going byt nothing crazy.  I created a template and cut the replacement floor.  When I went to dry fit the replacement on top of the existing floor I intend to replace I quickly realized that I haven't gotten enough of the water lines, gas line and electrical wires out of the way.  I just cant get it to lay in top to see if it'll do.  Will it slide in for a dry fit when I remove the existing floor or will I need to fully remove the water lines?  What is the trick for disconnecting the water line joints (blue connectors) in the event I need to take it all out?  I'm starting to wish I had a standard instead of a deluxe right about now.  I think back to the fittings in our 13 and how easy they must've been to install.  In short, should I proceed with removing the floor then do a dry fit using the lower tab as the support or should I take out all the water lines to gain better access for the dry fit and final install?  It seems like every step requires me to take apart another section of the trailer and I really don't want to get bogged down any more than I have to.  


Last seen: 5 years 4 months ago
Joined: 02/02/2019 - 17:09
Glassing layers?

I’ve read every floor replacement thread on this site and have just one question I’ve not seen addressed. 

How many layers of fiberglass do you use for the top and bottom tabs when glassing in the new floor? 

I’ve followed all the usual instructions and am debating another layer of glass or just paint what’s there and move on with flooring.