OK - I pull into a campground with electric, they have a box at the campsite with 30 amp, 50 amp, and 110V (or 120V) - whatever it is that we have at the house that we use the Scamp provided adapter to plug into. Couple questions:
1) Which is the "best" to plug into - my Scamp is a 30 amp, right. So is it best I plug that 30 right into the 30 amp on the box, or is it better to use the adapter on my 30 amp plug and plug it into the 110 or 120 whatever that one is?
2) When I do plug in, do I turn on the power at the box first (i.e. flip up the switch to give power to the 30 amp outlet) and then plug my Scamp into it......or should i first plug the Scamp into it and then throw on the main power switch?
3) Should I be using a surge protector between my Scamp and the campground electric box? If so - any certain ones that you all out there recommend?
Let's start with the easiest question first, Number 3: Yes, you should use a Surge Protector between the Campground's Power Pole and your Camper. Personally, I use the Progressive Industries Model SSP30, Surge Guard is another popular brand):
But, any good quality Surge Protector should work just fine.
Now onto question 2: You should check to ensure that the person before you did, in fact, turn off the power at the pole (turn off all 3 breakers), you need to realize that all breakers are not installed equally and "UP" can mean On or Off, so be careful around the power pole. Once you are certain the power is Off, then you can plug in your Surge Protector and turn the breaker to the On position. You will have some status lights on your Surge Protector that will tell you if the power is properly wired. If the Outlet is not properly wired, Don't Use that outlet! This is one reason to have multiple "Dog Bone" style adapters with you whenever you go camping (start of answer # 1 ). If you plug your adapter into the 120 volt (Standard Household) outlet and your Surge protector indicates that the circuit is wired properly, then you need to make a decision as to whether or not you can operate with the Std 120 v outlet for the duration of your stay (you may need to move to another campsite (I've been on three campsites before we had adequate power). If you have a "Dog Bone" that converts you from the 50 amp outlet down to your 30 amp camper plug this is also an option for you to get your power, If you wind up using the 50 amp outlet you may not need to move to another campsite because the 50 amp circuit will be able to provide power for all your needs. The main reason you might need to switch campsites if you only have the Std Household outlet available to you is it will not provide enough power to run your Air Conditioner, or your Microwave. Otherwise, you should probably be just fine using the Std. Household plug (I would keep my fridge running on Propane if this is the case).
So, Bottom Line: it is best to plug into the 30 amp outlet, using a Surge Protector to protect your camper from a Power Surge. It is also best to have options in case the first outlet is faulty.
PS: it is best Not to discover that you have power problems at 3:00 am, on a COLD Night, personal experience has taught me this lesson !!
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
I have a somewhat different view than the above post. I never turn off the breakers. These are Circuit breakers not switches and are not designed to be turned on and off that often. I typically, almost exclusively, use public facilities and try to do what I can to keep the maintenance costs down.
That being said I have all 120V items turned off with the exception of the converter. then plug into shore power. I do agree use the 30 amp connection keep your connections simple.
There is nothing wrong with turning the circuit breakers on and off. It is called exercising the breaker and should be done to all breakers now and then. Many commercial buildings have no light switches, only breakers to control the lights. Back to the 110-120 number, that is voltage and the 30 is current in amps. If you are running an air conditioner you want the 30-amp plug not the 15 or 20 amp with an adapter if you can.
Is the Progressive surge protector above waterproof? The campgrounds we've been at so far have had covers over the outlet.
Our electric box with breakers and fuses has failed us many times. I have replaced and rewired the box to no avail. We find ourselves this time at Lake Powell, Arizona with no air on an 84 degree night and no 120 volt power in the outlets. We’re from Birmingham, Al so this one hurts the most. Another problem I had with our 7 prong plug on the tow vehicle has been having the plug fall out of the outlet. That may have cost us our deep cycle battery not knowing when this plug disconnected while were driving. Did find a 7 prong plug to replace it however at Camping World.
I’ve checked all connections once again so I am totally mystified by this’s recurring problem. I can tap our breaker fuse box to have the 120 power kick on while I’m charging my phone. In the past I have had this box get hot to the touch. I have checked these connections many times but all are tight! I’ve also had an RV dealership help us with the problem and for a while it seemed to help. Problem has once again resurfaced.
Robert A. Marchiony
The clamp strap will hold the jack cover lock pin in the 7 pin plug slot to keep it from falling out. Sorry I can't help wih the power problem.
Eddie
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Back to THIS issue of no interior lights. There have been reports in these pages of the plug falling out of the receptacle in the back of the converter. Last time we used the 2018 Scamp 16' everything worked. Took it out this time and no lights. We did not know about the "plug falling out" problem. We found the extra plug floating around in the converter cabinet. The three prong plug receptacle is on the back left-hand (looking from the front) edge of the converter and can't be seen directly. We found it with a mirror and flashlight. We had 110 shore power. As soon as the plug went in all the lights came on. BUT now WITHOUT shore power we have no interior lights. (We are unhooked from the Tow Veh.) Yes, the camper battery is charged. We have examined the fuses including the fuse in the line attached to the positive battery terminal. The manual said there is a fuse on the converter but other than the ones I see in the panel on the front of the converter, I find no other fuse. Friends say their RVs have an AC/DC switch but I find no such on the camper.
Ideas?
Bruce Gair
Bruce
Since you’ve found the plug issue, it definitely sounds like a fuse. There should be two 30 amp fuses on the converter board. One is for the 120 side and one is for the 12v side. With what you describe it is usually the 12v side 30amp.
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If you have a volt meter , plug your scamp into shore power. Disconnect the two leads from your Scamp battery. Measure the voltage that is going to your battery. Also check the 20 amp fuse on your positive battery lead, It should be 13.2 - 13.6 volts. If you are getting less or none (which was my case last week). then you have a converter problem. Not sure where the converter is on the 16 ft, it is under the seat next to the hot water and grey water tanks in a 13ft scamp. 1 screw hold it in place. unplug it from the breaker box and lift it out. You will see the 30 amp fuse (fuses). You can test them or hold them up to the light. If they are good then your converter may not be.
I believe they have a 2 year warranty. Call the manufacture they are great. Mine was out of warranty and they worked out a great deal with me on a rebuilt one. (a new one on Amazon 170.00)
Good luck and keep us posted.
Gary
gwhaile
Have all the fuses tested good or do they just look good? I have seen fuses that looked good but tested bad! Testing with a meter is the best way to ensure they are good. Also, within a month of getting our new 2015 Scamp I found that the eye terminals for the wires at the battery were so poorly crimped that the 12v system stopped working. Check to make sure the crimps at the battery are good.