I need to replace some rivets on our new to us 2010 16' when I change some rusted hardware. What do you do about the rat fur when the rivet body is drilled out? I also need to get at it to put a backup washer on the new rivet. Should I make a small incision with a razor.blade? Sorry if this has been addressed before. Thanks!
Thu, 12/17/2015 - 19:52
#1
Another rivet question/ rat fur
When replacing rivets behind rat fur I take a piece of wire or awl push the old rivet base in and try get it off to the side of the hole. If the hole is in good shape, and you still have good solid walls to the hole I just pup in another rivet. I try to make sure the old rivet is laying flat behind the rat fur, you won't even see it. If the rivets are accessible I will use backer washers if need. The rivets came from the factory with no backer washers except for the visible acorn nuts.
Eddie
Eddie, Thank you for the response. I was under the impression that there should be a washer or acorn nut backing up all the rivets. Wouldn't not using anything for a backup make it susceptible to cracking the shell?
Mark
Pop/ Blind rivets were developed for where the back (blind) side of the rivet was inaccessible for bucking.. I don't think you will find a backing washer on any original installed rivets on most any fiberglass trailer. When replacing rivets you may find holes that are worn or over drilled. This is where backing washers are really needed. But if the hole is really bad it should be filled and re-drilled. When rivets are installed near cutouts like the older windows or vents usually the rivet shafts are accessible. I try to put washers on these rivets. Bottom line, if the hole is round and has solid walls you are more than likely OK not using a backing washer.
For sealing I use a little bit of butyl tape or 5200 sealant under the base washer. Both seem to do the job of sealing. The 5200 will add a little strength to the connection.
Eddie
I have a 2007 19 ft deluxe and just finished replacing all the screws that go into the cabinets along with new snap caps. The only snap caps I have yet to replace are the small ones that hold the curtain rod holders. The first two proved challenging in a couple of ways. First, the rivets wanted to spin when I was drilling them out. Now that I have them out, I haven't been able to get one to catch on the rod holder when I pop it, even though I had my wife hold the rod holder up against the rat fur when I popped it. I read in a post somewhere on here that this application uses 4-6 or 4-8 rivets. Those have an only 1/8" wide mandrel but the hole in the rod holder is larger than that. I tried all the way up to a 5/8 long mandrel (that should be a 4-10) which barely gets through the rod holder and when I start to pop it, it pulls back through before it compresses. I tried some 1/4" wide mandrels but their flange is too large to fit inside the snap cap base. I have ordered some 3/16" rivets to see how they do. I have only tried to rivet these two that I drilled out and it seems to me that the hole in the fiberglass is mighty big for a 1/8" wide rivet. Any idea what I am doing wrong or what I could be up against?
In older Scamps they used 5/32 dia. rivets on square frame windows and I think that is what they used on the curtain rod holders. They are hard to find and you usually have to buy a box of 500 unless Scamp has some available. I have some that are 1/2" long I used on window frames. Another option is to use the 3/16" rivets which can be found at most hardware stores. The 3/16 rivets will use a the larger base and cap.
Eddie
Thanks so very much for this. It is hugely helpful in learning what is going on.
I'm expecting Scamp's variety pack of rivets to arrive today or tomorrow. It is supposed to have 10 of each size including 5-6 which I believe is a 5/32 rivet with a 3/8 mandrel. If they work, I can order more from https://www.fastenere.com/rivets. (I still have to get 100 but they don't charge for shipping. I get fasteners from them all the time.)
However, I wonder if I might do well to go ahead and switch to the larger snap caps (using the 3/16 or even 1/4 rivets) because the only two that I drilled out so far spun and wallowed out the hole through the fiberglass a little. A bit larger base might be more stable over that enlarged hole. I'm trying to picture how it will look with so many of those larger snap caps. Do you have any thoughts on this?
In my previous life as an aircraft mechanic, I shot roughly 10 million rivets! We bucked most, but pop washers like the Scamp uses, and for us to replace are very light duty. They in no way will crack the fiberglass. Elongest is right about backing washers when the hole is suspect. Butyl tape is a wonder and should be used where water may be an issue. Having another inside to hold the acorn nuts up is a must. My bride does this with a small piece of wood for impact strength on the nut. We have replaced several and they are easy and almost fun!
<p>Doug Allen 2016 Ford F-150 2018 Lance 1575</p>
Thanks for the feedback...the reason I was asking about backing with washers is because I'm replacing the rusted hardware such as the door and front window cover holding latches. My thought was they will tend to get more stress than other rivets and should have a backing. I am planing on using Butyl tape but was apprehensive about just leaving the drilled out end of the old rivet under the rat fur and the structural integrity. My initial thought was to make a small slice with an X-Acto knife, remove the old rivet end and back it with the washer. By the sounds of it I was going overboard!