I just brought home my first Scamp and saved a few $$ by getting a reasonably nice 1984 13'. There was a pretty solid "80s" musty smell in the camper so I decided to tear out the ugly carpet, figuring it was the issue. Well it was stinky but then I saw the water damage! It seems water leaked through the table connections to the wall and down under the carpet.
I didn't have a screwdriver or awl on hand but I did press on portions of the floor and they were a bit mushy. I have a feeling I'm going to need to replace this lifted portion of the subfloor. Has anyone here done something like this? Is the subfloor under the shell, and if it is would I be able to cut before the shell and replace the subfloor? (perhaps adding support to the underside of the floor).
Click the image to see the huge version:
The benches appear to be easy to remove (minus the enormous amount of stuck, rusty screws).
Any suggestions? Any ideas of what I should do?
The floor is tabbed to the shell and provides support for the shell. If not repaired the shell will drop down on the frame rails and can crack the shell. If the rot is just about a foot from the rear wall I have replaced the last ft. of the floor. But it is almost just as easy to replace the complete rear upper floor deck. The good news the cost is not that much, about $200. The bad news it takes a while to do it. I have done quite a few and can talk you through the repair.
Eddie
So I started floor hardening and putting wood filler onto the floor, but as a final check I looked to see if the shell was resting on the frame. Indeed the shell is resting on the frame!
So I guess I'll be replacing the whole floor. So the reason the shell is on the frame is because the floor squished/sagged enough to lower the shell (I assume).
I will be removing the upper tab of the shell and then ripping out the old floor. Then replacing the floor with new OSB (unless you think a different subfloor material is a good choice). I'll be coating the replacement OSB with water resistant Zinsser sealer paint before placing it (http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser/waterpr...). Are there any better reccomendations for sealing the bottom of the subflooring?
I'm making a video blog of the progress, hopefully this will help other newcomers to the fiberglass maintenance crew.
In other news I got my replacement emergency exit! Lots of updates coming soon...
I'd agree with Eddie, it would probably be the best to replace the rear deck section. Eddie's done a number of them, as well as other members and we'll all help you out through the process. You'll probably want to do a mold remediation as well. Fairly simple process with a bleach solution.
Also will need to confirm where and fix the leaks. Could be the spare tire mount, very common place is the gasket seam on the window, etc.
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Thanks guys! I'm diving into this today, Eddie suggested that I try "got Rot" product to reharden the soft spots. The bottom of the floor is perfectly fine looking and hard. Only the edgemost 2" in some spots is soft (from inside the trailer).
After a heavy rain the first night having it, I also have found the driver side window leaks along with the emergency hatch (through the rivets).
I'all document my progress here and maybe via YouTube to help others with similar issues.
For anyone interested, I was able to remove the floor yesterday. I had to basically mangle it however since it was still adhered to the bottom tab. The top tab was removed by a 4" angle grinder (wear skin, eye, face protection!).
My plan is to use cardboard as a template to size up the replacement piece. I'm using plywood instead of OSB for the replacement. Right now the debate is what to put on the bottom to protect this wood, I'm thinking of just coating it in fiberglass resin. Zinsser "water tite" claims it can be used on wood but "waterproofing can't be guaranteed", which means it'll probably work but can't hold back gallons of water pressure (ok that's probably fine).
I'm certainly not an expert, but when I replace the small section of floor right in front of the door this past winter, I used the fiberglass resin. I applied two coats on all surfaces after cutting the marine plywood to shape. I included both sides and all the edges. It did involve over a week of drying time in my heated basement for the resin to properly set up into a fully hard coating.
Coat the bottom with resin, When you install the floor it will aid in bonding the wood to your bottom tabbing.
Eddie
There was mention in the facebook group that I should clean off the lower tab (from all the wood bits left over) and keep it when glassing the new board on top. Is this worth my time? I was thinking it may be convenient as I know how to grind things more than glass things :)
If it can save me some extra work and fiberglass, would it be worth it? I've seen on other posts here where people cut off the lower tab.
Working overhead with resin is no fun. I clean and leave the bottom tab. You can then mix up some thickened resin (peanut butter consistency) spread it on the lower tab then drop the floor in place. I then run self tapping duct screws through the bottom tabbing into the floor to tighten things up. Don't forget to put adhesive sealant on the metal lip at the rear of the lower floor. It is not needed on the frame rails.
Eddie