Hi Gang!
I know it's been a while, but are finally breaking out of Winter's grip up her in the Northeast and am sorting our 1977 Scamp (we bought it in December) and I have some questions.
As it is a 1977 without a shower the on-board wiring is very basic...at least I'd like to assume it is "basic" based on some of the more elaborate Scamps and RV's out there.
Yet, no matter how basic it may be it's still far enough over my head to cause me some grief. But I'll start by saying that it is a 4-pin set up and I have a 4-pin hitch set-up to match it.
1) The tail/brake/signal lights and running lights all work well EXCEPT one issue. when I use the right turn signal the hazards/running lights all turn and blink as if I had the hazards on. The left turn signal and brake lights (right and left) work perfectly. Just the right turn signal does not follow orders. Hmmmmmm. Any ideas?
Now for the tough stuff... :D
2) This is a little more detailed query; I will try my best to lay it out. My 1977 Scamp has a 120V input on the lower left rear quarter. No news there. :)
-- Off that 120V is a 12 gauge wire that goes directly into a single 10 amp breaker box
-- The 10 amp breaker box is wired directly to a GFI outlet next to the sink...that's it!
So my battery seems totally isolated from the outside world...because I can see no link between my outside 120V feed and the inverter in order to support/charge the battery.
Which leads directly to...
3) The battery conundrum
-- The battery is directly connected to a 2000 watt Whistler Inverter
-- A fuse box that supports the water pump, ceiling fan, and interior lights is connected to the same poles as the battery on the inverter.
-- But, I don't think the inverter is grounded at all...where to run a ground wire off the inverter ground pole? Yikes?!
-- to end it all, the 120V out receptacle on the inverter runs to the refrigerator.
So...you can see my problems. A battery that won't live long running a fridge, and a I've reached my limit of electrical understanding.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, because I do feel I can sort this out with a little help without handing it over to my local mechanic.
Many thanks to all!
-- Guy
You may not get much help. Nothing you describe is the way it was 40+ years ago. Divide and conquer, there are three electrical systems on the Scamp. First the DOT required lights, it should not be hard to test them, just apply 12 VDC to the three circuits one at a time, left and right turn, and tail lights. Next the 12 VDC house power circuit, the big problem there sounds like a way to charge a battery that is to small to do all that it is being asked to do. The 120 VAC is the one that is critical. It must be done correctly; the most important ground is the one for any out side outlets. Depending on what kind of camping you do and what you want to spend, you could put in a new AC and DC distribution box with a converter to charge the battery. The Scamps do not have an inverter from the factory.
Thanks acOgv!!!
The 3 system breakdown you mentioned is what I suspected. It is a huge help to get that confirmation.
What I was able to do was:
1) get the 12V VDC system working off the battery through the inverter and associated fuse box
2) get the DOT lights working except the left turn signal. When I do that all the hazards go on. Still have to sort that.
3) and get the 120 VAC to work through the 10 Amp breaker off of the outside connector.
I have a solar panel to charge the battery, but the AC/DC Distribution box will definitely be in our future (to keep the battery charged) and I suspect a thorough going over by someone like yourself who understands RV electrical systems. I can only imagine how a newer Scamp's systems work. I suspect the AC/DC Distribution box is standard equipment now.
Again thanks again for your response and help!
Best regards, Guy
Hi jumpugly,
I suspect that your turn signal issue is a bad or weak ground on the left rear light and/or socket. That is, when the left turn signal is on the left light grounds itself through the filament of the right turn signal.so that both lights blink. To test this theory try running a temporary wire from a known good negative battery connection point to the left rear light bulb socket and then try the left turn signal. Good luck!
Many Thanks Athern!
Will try this one right away. Oddly enough the flasher bulb was shot and I replaced it. I noticed the area
around the two bulbs was a bit messy after all these years. I'll clean all connections and we'll see what happens.
Thanks again for the suggestion!
-- Guy
Just one minor clarification of terms. Converter is the box that converts the 120VAC to 12VDC and charges the battery. The 120VAC goes to several breakers, one of which actually feeds the converter circuitry, the others go to the AC outlets. An inverter is a device that inverts 12VDC to create 120VAC, and as acOgv said, it must have been added by someone. Take it step by step and you will figure it out. Try to find a Scamp wiring diagram on one of these forums, it will be of enormous help.
-Paul
2004 Scamp 19 Deluxe,
2021 Tacoma, Double Cab, 6 cyl. 4WD
Colorado
Paul:
Thank for your response and jumping into the fray. :)
I suspect the Inverter was added by the previous owner thinking it would work in keeping the fridge going. Sadly, it does not seem that an inverter will run a fridge for very long off a deep cell battery. A converter seems to be the way to go as I want to be able to charge the battery more often than just off my solar panel. I have some diagrams from some other Scamp owners and I will pour through them to try and sort this out.
Best!
-- Guy