H All, I towed my 2003 Scamp 13 home last week using the proper adapter to connect my tow vehicle's flat 4 pin plug to the trailer's round 7 pin connector. Worked like a charm. I understand that if my tow vehicle had the 7 pin outlet, the connection would charge my trailer's battery while we were under way. I like that. But, one of the 7 pins provides current to the trailer's electric brakes. I do not have a brake controller in the cab of my tow vehicle. Would this be a problem? In other words, would the electrically charged brakes not know what to do without an input from the controller? Speaking of brakes, why does a trailer weighing only 1300 - 1500 lbs. need brakes in the first place? Seems like a bit of an overkill.
Thu, 05/25/2017 - 22:45
#1
4 Pin to 7 Pin Trailer Connector
Over kill would depend on your tow vehicle and the area you drive.
Unless there is another way to connect and things haven’t changed etc… A four pin on a tow vehicle connected via an adapter to a seven blade trailer plug does NOT provide charging voltage/current. See picture attached that I’ve found online/internet.
Plus, a four pin on a tow vehicle connected via an adapter to a seven blade trailer plug does NOT provide voltage to your brakes. See picture attached that I’ve found online/internet.
If you ever decide to remove and install a seven blade receptacle in-place of your four pin plug and wire it up CORRECTLY, you then can obtained charging voltage. If you don’t have a brake controller, then you wouldn’t have any voltage going to the brakes (assuming you correctly installed everything).
As for needing brakes (I’m just talking about MY EXPERIENCE), I did get the brakes on the camper and installed a brake controller and found it was worthless due to my vehicle was way heavier (Over 4000lbs to 6000lbs) then my camper (2000lbs). No matter what I did via adjusting the brakes to finally locking up the trailer brakes, my Odyssey Van in drive and no throttle applied, it would still move the camper easily. My brakes (on the camper) heated up and was squealing but was worthless. I used this type set up on bigger campers (22’ and bigger) and that DID WORK but not on my 13’. The 13’ has 7” brakes and is no match for the heavier Odyssey. It’s kind of like an 18 wheeler truck pulling a Volkswagen beetle. Now if I had a smaller vehicle (as a tow vehicle), am confident the brakes would work just fine.
So, I’ve since backed off (adjusted) the brakes totally off and back off my brake controller so that it did apply any voltage to my brakes. To this day, everything has been great!
Thanks for your response. My tow vehicle is a Chevy Blazer SUV with 4.3 L V6 engine. It probably weighs twice as much (or more) than my Scamp 13. So, if I read your response correctly, this 2 to 1 (or more) weight ratio makes trailer braking unnecessary, right? Furthermore, with a properly wired 7 pin connection for both vehicles and NO brake controller installed, the trailer's brakes will remain inert but I will get charging voltage for the trailer's battery while under way, right? Thanks again,
Bill in Seattle
Bill in Seattle
I'm just going by my experience and knowing what I know now (I would do the same thing). I'm sure about the 12v charging line and the brake signal line not working without a brake controller (and no modifications to any of those lines going to the plug have been done that you don't know about) and everything hooked up correctly.
As for the weight of the vehicle, my information is of my experience. This is just a suggestion, but do some research and see if you can supply 12 vdc (I don't know how much current would be required) just to the brakes on the camper while mechanically connected to your tow vehicle. With the camper brakes fully applied, put your tow vehicle in Drive (Do NOT apply any throttle) and see if you vehicle starts moving the camper with it's (camper) brakes fully ON. If it does move, how then are the brakes on the camper going to ever help you on the road going at normal speeds other then heating up the wheels (and maybe melting the grease in the hubs)?
The reason I can't guarantee anything for others, is because I've been in some circumstances where someone missed wired (or modified) something in the past for which caused a problem in the present etc...
My husband just picked up a used Scamp for a friend, who will be towing with a 2-dr Jeep Wrangler. We didn't realize the trailer had brakes, so a bonus. She is leaving this weekend for a long trip, and couldn't get the brake unit installed on her Jeep in time for the trip. The Jeep is rated for towing 2500 lbs, so the Scamp is well under that. The brakes however would be an added measure of safety for emergency stops, which is a big concern in towing. I don't have brakes on mine, towed with a 4-dr Jeep 3500 lb towing capacity. I just use the 4-prong converter. I would get the brake controller installed if you are towing with a smaller SUV.
Rhonda Riebow
the weight of your TV has nothing to do with if the trailer brakes are useful or useless. The only thing that determines if you need to use the trailer brakes are your local laws or your TV's owners manual. For example, I live in Virginia, where the state requires brakes on trailers over 3000 pounds, so I don't need camper brakes by law, but my TV manual requires/reocmmends brakes over 1500 pounds.
Just because there are brakes on the camper, just know they will not engage unless you have a brake controller & a properly wired 7-pin connector on yoru vehicle.
My recommendation is to at least have your 4-pin connector rewired for a 7-pin, that way your TV system willl charge your camper battery while in tow. It's up to you if you want to use your camper brakes or not. just know they won't work without a BC.
The tow vehicle brakes are for stopping the tow vehicle. The trailer brakes are for stopping the trailer. If both brake systems are working properly a driver would not notice much difference (distance/pedal pressure needed) between stopping with the trailer or without the trailer.