The door of our 2015 13' Scamp did not fit very well. My first thought was that the door had lost some of it's curve. After looking into it more with a fibreglass repair expert we determined that the problem was not the door but the body of the trailer. To make the door fit we built up that area of the body.
Thanks. Will examine closely but think it is the door. Have read for years that is a common problem. However adding to body may be the only way I can see to deal with it. I have added compressible gaskets to the gaps already.
1. When restoring our 1974 SCAMP, I poured hot water on the lower part of the door while jacking it up. (The inner part of the door is 3/4" plywood, which when wet will bend.)
2. I drilled two small holes above the bottom trim and nailed two large staples on the floor underneath. I hook two strong bungee-type cords from the holes to the staples. This pulls the door tight to the body.
Re. 1. Question: What is it that you are jacking? How did you wet the plywood?
Re.2 If I understand staples are on the floor INSIDE the Scamp. Is that so? Don't see how this could work if they are under the floor and you want to close the door tight while inside. I assume if they are inside, then one could hit them wil feet, etc.
OR, are both parts of the same fix? In other words, wet the plywood and then hold it in with the staples and bungees until it dries and reshapes?
Hot water was applied directly to door (inner liner was not rat fur). Recurving pressure applied with floor jack lifting door from bottom.(not too much)
The door of our 2015 13' Scamp did not fit very well. My first thought was that the door had lost some of it's curve. After looking into it more with a fibreglass repair expert we determined that the problem was not the door but the body of the trailer. To make the door fit we built up that area of the body.
Thanks. Will examine closely but think it is the door. Have read for years that is a common problem. However adding to body may be the only way I can see to deal with it. I have added compressible gaskets to the gaps already.
I have done two things:"
1. When restoring our 1974 SCAMP, I poured hot water on the lower part of the door while jacking it up. (The inner part of the door is 3/4" plywood, which when wet will bend.)
2. I drilled two small holes above the bottom trim and nailed two large staples on the floor underneath. I hook two strong bungee-type cords from the holes to the staples. This pulls the door tight to the body.
Interesting.
Re. 1. Question: What is it that you are jacking? How did you wet the plywood?
Re.2 If I understand staples are on the floor INSIDE the Scamp. Is that so? Don't see how this could work if they are under the floor and you want to close the door tight while inside. I assume if they are inside, then one could hit them wil feet, etc.
OR, are both parts of the same fix? In other words, wet the plywood and then hold it in with the staples and bungees until it dries and reshapes?
Thanks, Matt
I didn't understand to stable/hole/bungee fix either. Plus, I assume too the plywood needs to be wet after removing the rat fur?
asfizer
Hot water was applied directly to door (inner liner was not rat fur). Recurving pressure applied with floor jack lifting door from bottom.(not too much)
How about it mccownw? Pics, that is.
I just tried to send two photos. Will try again here, one at a time.
Here's another photo, underneath trailer.
Thanks! Not sure I'd want to drill holes in my door but I guess once you get it warped back into shape you could patch them. Thanks again.