Usually when the door is out that much you will have to pull the inner liner and glass or bolt in supports to put the bow back into the door. On some real old scamps I have seen a little metal bracket that caught the lower front of the door when closing and held the bottom in tight to the body. (very rare) I have also seen eye bolt, wire and turn buckle repair jobs even a ratchet strap from top to bottom on the inside. New doors are expensive it doesn't hurt to try to try a repair if it bowed out that much.
On our 1974 13' SCAMP, as the gap increased, I first filled it with stick-on foam. When it increased to 1", I screwed to the floor opening a 3/4" piece of wood with foam over the top.
Then, when the trailer was ca. 20 years old, the door got caught on some road debris and was damaged. So we replaced it with a new one (ordered from SCAMP).
Over time, this door too developed a gap, which during the next 20 years increased to ca. 1". When we did a total restoration in 1914, I used the following means to "restore" the bend. Assuming the interior of the door was plywood, I jacked up the door and poured hot (near boiling) water on the interior of the door, while putting upward pressure on the bend with a floor jack. Over ca 24 hours, I repeated this process several times, while checking the bend and adjusting the pressure from the floor jack. Voila: it worked, and the door now fits perfectly again, like new.
I then drilled two small holes through the bottom of the door, just above the trim. Two rubber bands with S-hooks on the ends are hooked through this holes and stretched to large staples nailed into the floor underneath the trailer, to keep the door pulled tight when in storage.
Buy a door sweep. Just measure width and length of what you need. They screw right into the door and the bristles/rubber at the bottom will seal the airflow.
Usually when the door is out that much you will have to pull the inner liner and glass or bolt in supports to put the bow back into the door. On some real old scamps I have seen a little metal bracket that caught the lower front of the door when closing and held the bottom in tight to the body. (very rare) I have also seen eye bolt, wire and turn buckle repair jobs even a ratchet strap from top to bottom on the inside. New doors are expensive it doesn't hurt to try to try a repair if it bowed out that much.
Eddie
On our 1974 13' SCAMP, as the gap increased, I first filled it with stick-on foam. When it increased to 1", I screwed to the floor opening a 3/4" piece of wood with foam over the top.
Then, when the trailer was ca. 20 years old, the door got caught on some road debris and was damaged. So we replaced it with a new one (ordered from SCAMP).
Over time, this door too developed a gap, which during the next 20 years increased to ca. 1". When we did a total restoration in 1914, I used the following means to "restore" the bend. Assuming the interior of the door was plywood, I jacked up the door and poured hot (near boiling) water on the interior of the door, while putting upward pressure on the bend with a floor jack. Over ca 24 hours, I repeated this process several times, while checking the bend and adjusting the pressure from the floor jack. Voila: it worked, and the door now fits perfectly again, like new.
I then drilled two small holes through the bottom of the door, just above the trim. Two rubber bands with S-hooks on the ends are hooked through this holes and stretched to large staples nailed into the floor underneath the trailer, to keep the door pulled tight when in storage.
Buy a door sweep. Just measure width and length of what you need. They screw right into the door and the bristles/rubber at the bottom will seal the airflow.