Propane leak somewhere near regulator

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Sardith
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Joined: 04/28/2017 - 15:46
Propane leak somewhere near regulator

I've sprung a propane leak somewhere near the regulator on my 1982 13' Scamp. I could use some tips on replacing the regulator, because I'm worried that the near 40-year-old metal line leading into the Scamp won't connect correctly with a new regulator (i.e., the thread won't seal completely, the metal will be too weak to support the new regulator, etc.) Any advice on how to test this sort of thing will be greatly appreciated! Thanks ahead of time! 

LEberhardt
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Joined: 11/02/2013 - 20:08
Pipe Connections

Clean the old threads with a wire brush. Apply pipe sealant and connect firmly but not forcibly. Check for leaks with a detergent and water solution. You can always replace more parts if needed.

Sardith
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Last seen: 6 years 4 months ago
Joined: 04/28/2017 - 15:46
Propane leak near regulator

Thank you for those tips!  Taking it one (hopefully unnecessary) step further, how much work am I looking at to get an entire new gas line and regulator installed?  Would I have to take the main body off of the frame?  Or is it possible to simply insert new length of pipe into the opening left by the old pipe?  Would I need to do any welding or do things in there just screw together?  Thanks! 

LEberhardt
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Joined: 11/02/2013 - 20:08
Propane plumbing

Propane connections just screw together. No soldering required. Open flames and gas lines are not a good combination. Newer Scamps use a rubber connecting hose between the regulator and the trailer body, so if the old line doesn't fit/reach the new regulator, a hose would solve that problem. If a leak test shows no bubbles, you're good to go. A propane dealer or RV repair service could do the work if you don't feel comfortable trying it.

Sardith
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Last seen: 6 years 4 months ago
Joined: 04/28/2017 - 15:46
Propane leak

Alright, last question.  Can anyone describe or include an image of where a new rubber LP gas hose would connect within the Scamp?  I imagine it connects at a main junction, and then branches off to the various appliances that use it (refrigerator, stove, furnace, etc.).  I'm having trouble locating it on my own, and I don't want to buy replacement parts unless I'm fairly certain about where the work will have to take place.  Google searches produce limited images and diagrams, leaving the areas that I think I'll be repairing hidden (as far as I can tell).  Thanks!

athearn2
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Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 02/16/2015 - 10:43
Rubber LP hose

The flexible hose (rubber?) goes from the regulator to a copper pipe fitting on the outside front wall. All the piping inside the Scamp is copper. 

Gordon2
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Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 04/26/2015 - 09:01
Propane leak testing

Note that “bubble testing” the accessible connections is NOT sufficient to guarantee the system is leak free. The way to be sure there are no leaks is to use a manometer with reduced pressure (~8 inches WC and tank turned off) and see that it holds the pressure for 15 minutes or more. Other tests are also required to see that the reg is properly adjusted and the system is working as it should be.  Corrosion and contaminates are a likely issue with a system that old.

A couple of months ago a couple of Scamp owners in the mid-west were severely injured when a break in the propane line leaked gas that then ignited a flash fire. The leak was not from a fitting or in an area where it would be normally discovered with a bubble test.

Also be sure the regulator is mounted so rain water can drain out of the reg (vent pointed down). Many Scamps are not like this. The one I bought had the reg's vent horizontal and in about two years the inside was badly rusted and it started to leak propane.

And of course when LEberhardt mentioned pipe sealant, it is the gas-safe type (not the same as water pipe sealant) and its for pipe threads not flair connections. If you are not sure of what you are doing then hire the work out to a certified professional.