We have a 13' Scamp with wndow above our stove. We would like to make a back splash from the bathroom wall to end of the kitchen counter. If anyone has done this successfully please share the material and perhaps a pic.
Thanks
Crew of R Tardis,
Gary and Jeanine
Jeanine,
Not sure if you are still working on a backsplash but thought Id chime in...We are currently undertaking this project as well. We just bought a used 1993 16' Scamp with 2 counters (both with windows) for the kitchen. We are about half way through doing the installation. After trying a few things we decided to go with a piece of aluminum sheet metal (purchased at home depot for $23 per 36"x36" piece) to act as a backer to SmartTiles. The sheet metal is somewhat easy to cut using sheet metal clippers and with some encouragement and determination will slip behind the fiberglass. Our biggest thing was not wanting to remove the carpeting on the walls. Our plan is to then mount SmartTiles (stickyback decorative tiles) onto the aluminum sheetmetal. Ive finished the sheetmetal on our sink side. Some edges are a little rough but will be covered by the smart tiles.
Ill post more images once we complete the project!!
Hopefully this is helpful.
Stephen and Cameron Freshwater
I’m considering doing a similar backsplash with smart tiles and was thinking of using a thin bathe type backer board. I’ll be very interested in how this comes out using the aluminum sheet.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
Greg,
How thick is the backer board you are considering?
We did a first run with 1/4" plywood sheets and was able to fit it behind the fiberglass with a ton of force (we did not remove any rivets). However, because of the obstacles of the window, curtain rod holders, and sink faucet we had to cut the pattern into 4 sections to make it fit. Once it was all in place the 1/4" which once seemed very thin seemed too thick. We also did not want to fasten anything to the carpet with glue and especially did not want to add any rivets so the joints of the 4 pieces bowed a bit and did not lay flat. That is when we decided we needed a new plan. So far the sheet metal has been much more flexible when trying to do the corners and get it tucked behind the upper and side (closet) fiberglass. Plus, it is all one sheet, no joints.
We are waiting on our sample from smart tiles and then will finish up this project! Im just as interested to see how it'll turn out and will post pictures here!
Stephen and Cameron Freshwater
Hi Stephen n Cameron,
The board material I’m considering is between 1/16 to 1/8” One I’m considering is Home D sells 4x8 sheets of a Polymer that I have used for numerous projects and is very flexible, thin, and simple to cut. About $22 for a sheet. Just need to confirm that the tiles would adhere properly to it. Redoing the bathroom walls with it in my Scamp 19 soon since it is much easier to work with than the stiffer bathroom backer boards like Scamp used in there.
I’ve seen about three backsplash’s done in trailers with the smart tiles and you will really like it. So far, no one is reporting any issues with the tiles not staying in place.
Our Trailers:
2015 19 Escape
Buying or Selling Molded FG Trailers:
Fiberglass-RV-4Sale
That sounds like a great option!! We would love to see how the bathroom turns out!! We can always use inspiration for future projects!
Stephen and Cameron Freshwater
We have completed one side of our backsplash finally! The sheet metal proved to be a great base for the tiles!
We did end up going with a different brand of tiles we found off of amazon (actually purchased locally at wal-mart though) called Stick Tiles. We were willing to go off brand from the Smart Tiles as they are around $7.00 per tile and the Stick Tiles were around $4.00 per tile. Here is the link to amazon: - amazon did not sell the white hexagon we wanted which is why we purchased at wal-mart.
We are happy with how this side turned out considering it being our first attempt. It took a few tiles being tossed because of not fitting as well as we wanted. The hardest part was getting the curves around the window to be flush. We are considering doing a small edging of caulk around the window to hide any imperfections.
Just as we did with the sheet metal, we tucked a small amount of the tile behind the fiberglass. This was difficult esp with the adhesive backing but with a straight edge we were able to maneuver it in.
Here are the pictures:
On to the next side :)
Stephen and Cameron Freshwater