Never heard of that. The Aux wire goes from the 7 Way plug through a user installed circuit breaker by the battery to the battery +post. It does not go through your vehicle wiring unless the vehicle is pre wired for it. What does your car dealer say about that. You do not want to ARC/Mig weld on your car or trailer (if connected) without disconnecting your vehicle computers. At work they welded something on an older truck and burnt up the engine computer. Second thought contact E-trailer their tech reps have seen it all.
I had a 12 volt power wire and female 7 pin connector put on our 2014 Outback by a local garage In Backus, MN on June 8th of this year. No problems. I will say this garage knows what they are doing as it is a really nice job. Craftsman like work. I will say it was pricey, but I do not mind paying for somebody who knows what they are doing.
I've never heard of a shop saying this. As Eddie says the charging line is completely independent of the vehicle wiring and comes straight off the battery post. It's not a difficult thing to do yourself if you want to add it, any auto parts store can guide you with parts you'd need.
As an OLD time mechanic (think points, condensers, carburetors, etc) I can understand that mechanics hesitancy. With all the computer controls and sensors nowadays There is no telling what will trigger a malfunction. I want to install something to charge my aux battery and run the fridge off the vehicle when on the road. I started looking at battery isolators but shied away when they said 1) cut and splice the wires from the alternator and 2) the diodes cause a voltage drop. I know enough to know that either of these could, potentially, mess with sensor signals and computer actions.
As a result, I have settled on an automatic charging relay (ACR) from Stinger (seemed a popular choice). But their instructions and wiring diagram leave a lot to be desired. Maybe you can help: 1) Iam, of course, not connecting direct to the Scamp battery but going through a 7-way trailer connector (existing on the Scamp, converted 4-way to 7-way on my Escape). I'm planning to use 10-ga wire with 20-A fuse which, I think, is more than enough for this application. Comments? and 2) What is the best place to tap a "true ignition" source?
Depending on how your Vehicle operates, the best place to tap a "True Ignition" source is to tap into the Cigarette Lighter circuit. When I say "Depending on how your vehicle operates", I mean that if your Cigarette Lighter operates with the ignition, then you have a "True Ignition" source (also, the wiring to the plug is usually rather thick).
Thanks! I don't know why that one didn't come to mind except that I already use it for a small inverter. Also, I think I read somewhere that it needs to be a circuit that is also hot when the ignition switch is in the "Start" position as well as "Run". But now I'm thinking that would be only if you wanted to use the Auxiliary battery to supplement the main battery during startup - which I don't. So that Lighter circuit sounds good if I can locate it under the hood amongst all that wrapped up spaghetti!
Since you are already using the Cigarette Plug for a fairly heavy usage device, you could also consider wiring up a relay to the cigarette lighter plug and sourcing the power direct from the battery. Another option would be to use a fuse tap which can split any circuit and will not interfere with the existing circuit.
The 2016 Outback has a different electrical system than earlier models. I'm having a similar problem. I've been back and forth to the dealer for two months trying to get a brack controller. Their first effort left me on a dark Missouri road with no tail lights (no trailer yet)
The dealer is frustrated by the lack of help from Subaru. I'm just frustrated.
BTW, the new Subaru is all electronic - even the steering. There is no brake light wire to hook into -- it's all just a signal to the computer. There are more electronics on it than on the Lunar Rover.
My experience with 2012 Outback after seeing a Subaru dealer for installing 7-way with power in VA (2), MT, and MO. is that the Outback is NOT made to tow anything but a utility trailer. None of the 4 dealers would even touch the 7-way power connection after extensive discussion from the factory. This discussion confirms it. My advice is do not buy a Subaru for towing.
bill & valerie 2016 13' 2017 Kia Sorento EX V6, AWD
Never heard of that. The Aux wire goes from the 7 Way plug through a user installed circuit breaker by the battery to the battery +post. It does not go through your vehicle wiring unless the vehicle is pre wired for it. What does your car dealer say about that. You do not want to ARC/Mig weld on your car or trailer (if connected) without disconnecting your vehicle computers. At work they welded something on an older truck and burnt up the engine computer. Second thought contact E-trailer their tech reps have seen it all.
Eddie
I had a 12 volt power wire and female 7 pin connector put on our 2014 Outback by a local garage In Backus, MN on June 8th of this year. No problems. I will say this garage knows what they are doing as it is a really nice job. Craftsman like work. I will say it was pricey, but I do not mind paying for somebody who knows what they are doing.
Doug
I've never heard of a shop saying this. As Eddie says the charging line is completely independent of the vehicle wiring and comes straight off the battery post. It's not a difficult thing to do yourself if you want to add it, any auto parts store can guide you with parts you'd need.
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As an OLD time mechanic (think points, condensers, carburetors, etc) I can understand that mechanics hesitancy. With all the computer controls and sensors nowadays There is no telling what will trigger a malfunction. I want to install something to charge my aux battery and run the fridge off the vehicle when on the road. I started looking at battery isolators but shied away when they said 1) cut and splice the wires from the alternator and 2) the diodes cause a voltage drop. I know enough to know that either of these could, potentially, mess with sensor signals and computer actions.
As a result, I have settled on an automatic charging relay (ACR) from Stinger (seemed a popular choice). But their instructions and wiring diagram leave a lot to be desired. Maybe you can help: 1) Iam, of course, not connecting direct to the Scamp battery but going through a 7-way trailer connector (existing on the Scamp, converted 4-way to 7-way on my Escape). I'm planning to use 10-ga wire with 20-A fuse which, I think, is more than enough for this application. Comments? and 2) What is the best place to tap a "true ignition" source?
Depending on how your Vehicle operates, the best place to tap a "True Ignition" source is to tap into the Cigarette Lighter circuit. When I say "Depending on how your vehicle operates", I mean that if your Cigarette Lighter operates with the ignition, then you have a "True Ignition" source (also, the wiring to the plug is usually rather thick).
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
Thanks! I don't know why that one didn't come to mind except that I already use it for a small inverter. Also, I think I read somewhere that it needs to be a circuit that is also hot when the ignition switch is in the "Start" position as well as "Run". But now I'm thinking that would be only if you wanted to use the Auxiliary battery to supplement the main battery during startup - which I don't. So that Lighter circuit sounds good if I can locate it under the hood amongst all that wrapped up spaghetti!
Since you are already using the Cigarette Plug for a fairly heavy usage device, you could also consider wiring up a relay to the cigarette lighter plug and sourcing the power direct from the battery. Another option would be to use a fuse tap which can split any circuit and will not interfere with the existing circuit.
Here is a posting with links to the fuse taps...
http://www.scampowners.com/forums/adding-circuit-existing-fuse-block
Good Luck
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
The 2016 Outback has a different electrical system than earlier models. I'm having a similar problem. I've been back and forth to the dealer for two months trying to get a brack controller. Their first effort left me on a dark Missouri road with no tail lights (no trailer yet)
The dealer is frustrated by the lack of help from Subaru. I'm just frustrated.
BTW, the new Subaru is all electronic - even the steering. There is no brake light wire to hook into -- it's all just a signal to the computer. There are more electronics on it than on the Lunar Rover.
Clyde & Cecile Bentley - C2B2
My experience with 2012 Outback after seeing a Subaru dealer for installing 7-way with power in VA (2), MT, and MO. is that the Outback is NOT made to tow anything but a utility trailer. None of the 4 dealers would even touch the 7-way power connection after extensive discussion from the factory. This discussion confirms it. My advice is do not buy a Subaru for towing.
bill & valerie 2016 13' 2017 Kia Sorento EX V6, AWD
Call E-trailer they should be able to help you. They sell a Tenoska (sp) wireless controller for about $300 you may have to go that route.
Eddie
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