I have a 2016 Scamp 13' we just brought home 2 weeks ago. I just hooked up a tekonsha p3 brake controller for the trailer brakes. I get over 13 volts at the rear connector on the car. The brake controller is set to maximum. If I manually active the trailer brakes all the way on a very slight decline at approx. 2-3 miles an hour with the car in neutral it will barley stop the car.
I adjusted the trailer brakes so there is just a slight drag. (they were pretty close already) and it made no difference.
I have a feeling it may be a ground problem where the brakes ground to the frame. I plan to check that tonight. I have already checked trailer frame to car ground and that is fine. Just wondering if this is a known/common issues with a new trailer. or if anyone has any suggestions
Thanks in advance
Dan
The issue may be your testing procedures. Electric Trailer Brakes use the spinning motion of the wheels to apply pressure to the brake shoes.
There is an electro magnet that is attached to a lever that gets pulled onto the face of the drum and the drag from the spinning drum moves the lever which in turn expands the brake shoes into the drum and stops the trailer.
Tekonsha's directions say to turn down the controller's power to 6 volts ( check the instructions to be certain ) and drive the trailer up to 25 mph and fully apply the trailer brakes using the lever on the controller. If your trailer barely stops increase the setting on the controller until your brakes lockup at 25 mp, that is the setting for your trailer with that vehicle, if you change vehicles or replace your brakes you need to reset your controller.
I think your wheels are not spinning fast enough to engage the brakes at 2 - 3 mph.
Try the above procedure and let us know your results.
PS: Your brake shoes and drums are new and they may need to be operated for a short while before maximum braking effectiveness is achieved. Once they get broken-in you may need to reduce your Controller setting.
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
I have tested at higher speeds at full setting (14) on the brake controller at 20-25mph. Then fully engaged the trailer brakes. You barely feel a noticeable slow down. on setting 6 which the directions suggest for starting the brakes do nothing at all.
Update<
I re adjusted brakes again with no change. I also ground the frame where the trailer brakes individual grounds attached.
Still no change very weak brakes with full power from brake controller. I'm not even sure where else to go with this.
Sounds to me like you are expecting the trailer to stop the entire rig. It cannot happen because the brakes are too small.. Those little bitty 7 inch brakes will only make sure the trailer stays behind the tow vehicle during a stop.
The Scamp brakes will/should stop/slow down the trailer when the break away switch actuates if the trailer gets unhooked from your tow vehicle.
Bob D
2005 13' Scamp "Lil Critter"
Brenda, AZ
The brakes on a Scamp should be able to "Lock-Up" when the brakes (and Controller) are working properly.
In the original posting Dan-o did not mention that he had tried stopping at 25 mph (ergo my post).
Dan-o, you mentioned you are getting 13 volts at the trailer connector, I am thinking you are testing the trailer charging pin and not the trailer brake pin.
Try setting your controller at 6 and have someone actuate the brake controller while you have a volt meter on the pin out for the trailer brakes, presumably you should get a reading around 6 volts. Next try increasing the setting to 8 or 9 and test again, presumably you will get a reading of 8 or 9 volts. now, set the controller at the max setting and you should get a voltage reading of 13 volts +/- (if your tow vehicle is running). If your voltage increases with each test, your controller is probably working correctly, if the voltages do not increase (or they are lower than expected) your tow vehicle and/or your controller may be wired incorrectly.
I suggest this only because your Scamp is brand new and you had the controller installed recently.
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
I did test with our Tekonsha trailer connector tester at work. voltage fluctuates as it should at different setting with the brake controller with a max of just over 13v with controller set on #14 setting
Don,
You don't mention if the P3 is new or not. First call I would make would be to Scamp Trailers. It's a brand new trailer, so if you can eliminate that it is a problem with the controller or tug wiring then they should help getting it figured out as a warranty issue.
You might want to glance through the tekonsha P3 FAQ's on the left side menu if you haven't already.
http://www.tekonsha.com/products/brake-controllers/proportional-controll...
Here's a pretty good thread on troubleshooting the brakes
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/874214-trailer-brakes-b...
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P3 is brand new. I also have tested the output of trailer brakes at the rear connector with the tekonsha diagnostic tester we have at work (Ford Dealer) everything tests fine.
Bob is correct 7" brakes on S-13 and older S-16's will not normally lock up, they will just slow the trailer and keep it behind the tow vehicle. The 3.5K axle with 10" brakes on newer S-16's &19's will lock up on gravel and hard surfaces.
Eddie
From Dexter FAQ brake questions: BRAKES - Why can't I lock and slide my electric brakes?
On an unloaded trailer, you may be able to lock up your brakes if your electric brake controller is supplying full amperage to the brakes. When loaded to capacity, you may not be able to lock your brakes as electric brakes are designed to slow the trailer at a controlled rate, and not designed to lock up the wheels on a fully loaded trailer. Our brakes are designed to meet all applicable safety standards. All of our brakes will perform better after numerous burnish stops to seat the brake linings to the drums.
Since S-13's have 2.2K axles they are pretty close to being loaded to the max.
I'm not concerned with them locking up. They have almost no stopping power at all. If im going 30 mph and shift to neutral (coasting) then fully apply the trailer brakes, you really don't even feel a drag. I would be happy with really any noticeable stopping power. We are leaving tonight for a 500+ mile camping trip for the weekend. My car stops the trailer fine without trailer brakes. But since it has them I would really like them operational for emergency stopping situations. I figure I will drive this trip with the brake controller on highest setting like I have. Maybe the brake shoes just need to wear in? I plan to re-asses the situation after this trip.
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