First: I'll be picking up a Scamp 13 in August (YAY!), and am very happy to be a new member of this group. As I've been thinking about issues and options, I've been grateful to have this friendly forum as a guide.
Now, as a soon-to-be Scamper, I hope to draw on the hive mind to get answers to random newbie questions. Here's one: Thinking about covers for the two-burner stove: Dimensions of the matching cover sold by Scamp? https://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-store-cat-view/appliances/wood-two-b... Was thinking about other covers, but don't know if they would block the sink space or (mis)fit oddly--anyone know? https://amzn.to/2MBIa8i or https://amzn.to/2Mrn6Bg What are the clearances from edge of stove to edges of counter and to sink?
Thanks!
I enjoy working with wood so I made our stove cover. There is about 3/4 inch space between the stove edge and the sink edge. Conventional 1 inch lumber, which is really 3/4 inch thick, will fit in that space. Because the stove edge is curved there is more space out towards the corners of the stove. There is 2 inches between the bottom of the cover and the counter surface. The stove knobs are the highest part of the stove. Our cover clears the knobs by about 3/8 inch. The cover is a symmetrical rectangle so it fits two ways.
Thanks, athearn2, for the useful information. Beautiful job on that cover! How long is a side of the symmetrical rectangle?
The stove cover outside dimensions are 20 1/8 by 15 inches.
Pardon my potty mouth, but I'm hoping some of you can help: What's your experience with the portable toilet sold by Scamp? (Dometic/Sealand 960 series): https://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-store/appliances/dometic-sani-potti-detail.html How effective? Easy to use? I'm told that the storage spot (under front bench in Scamp 13 Standard, Layout 1) is only 13.25" high. Apparently, this particular model is one of the few that is low enough to fit. Does anyone recommend any different models? Anyone stash their porta-potty elsewhere? Thanks!
Well heres my take, we have been on the same Potti hunt lately for your 13'. After researching endlessly on forums, and trying (literally) sitting on all the models. We came to the conclusion that the Thetford models 135 and 335 were the best fit for us (most forum users seem to agree). Liked the Dometic, very well put together, but the Thetford's were more comfortable and seemed to be designed a bit better for dumping. The only difference between the 135 and 335 is a Piston Flush and Capacity Gauge. If you look around the internets, the 335 is only $20-30 more, worth it in my opionion. You can find the 135 for $80-90 and the 335 for $110-130. The Sani is around a $100 bucks or so I Believe.
Thanks for that helpful information. Sounds like the Thetford 335 is the way to (ahem) go!
I make a storage tray out of 1X4 lumber with a 3/8 plywood bottom. When in use I flip over the storage tray and set the PP on the 4" riser bringing the PP to a more comfortable height. And it still fits and stores under the front bench seat in a Scamp.
Eddie
Thanks, Eddie. Sounds like an easy way to convert an awkward squat seat into a more comfortable throne.
I'm working out final details/options for a Scamp 13 that I've ordered. Thinking about window coverings: Seems that the default curtain rods are kind of flimsy and the drapes are pretty floppy and unattractive. Some people have created nice new drapes to hang on original (or sturdier replacement) rods. But I'm aiming for a cleaner, more contemporary look while avoiding drilling any holes in the shell.
I've scanned the archives to get ideas for installing a fabric shade of some kind that could roll up/down or maybe slide away to one side. Wondering if anyone could add to the discussion that appears here: https://preview.tinyurl.com/y58v2zx9 and here: https://preview.tinyurl.com/y4ygrmhz.
Of course it's hard to plan any modifications when I don't yet have the Scamp. My immediate question is: Should I request that the factory NOT install any curtain rods my new Scamp 13 and just start with a blank slate? (That would eliminate many rivet holes--as long as I can count on figure out a different approach to covering the windows.) Alternatively, should I have the usual rods installed and then just try to work with (or around) them? Has anyone modified those original rods to accommodate different brackets? Has anyone asked the factory to install a different kind of mount or bracket for (alternative) window coverings? Also, how far out do the Hehr frames extend past the fur? (Wondering how much surface they offer for attaching brackets or tracks to the top face.)
I'd be especially grateful for photos and descriptions from people who have changed out the stock window coverings for a more contemporary look. Thanks, experienced Scampers, for your ideas, images, instructions, warnings, links to sources for materials, etc.
If/When I order new, "Curtain Rod -Delete" would be my very first thing written on the order form, underlined twice. All those extra holes eliminated from the shell, and not have to deal with those flimsy rods (drive me nuts, we changed ours out to thin bungee cords, and works so much better). Same goes for Backsplash and waste hose tube. Not sure what solution I would go with instead of rods, but those interior window frames have a bunch of real estate, so could some up with something.
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