I have only tried twice to run on LP traveling and both times it was out at the next rest stop. We too run on the 12v but that requires a lot of amps 10-12 to do a good job so fully charged house battery before leaving is real important so that is not an additional draw. I hope to try some wind deflectors of sorts to protect the burner from gusts/wind. We met a couple that duct taped some of the vents to see but I do not know if that worked or not. and would need to be removed when stopped. I just removed and cleaned my entire burner assembly and cleaned it out. it was40% clogged with a bug web and was causing the flame to be yellowish. Now better. I also wired a single layer loose tube of aluminum window screen over the air intake side holes to minimize the chance of another web attack. It is not fun to work in such a tight space. also three different drivers necessary is nutz!! Torx, phillips, straight or 1/4 inch and 7/16 for the gas line. All fragile items too.
yeah i just called scamp and they don't recommend traveling on propane, they said use 12V mode. i will do so in the future and make sure my battery is topped up.
10-12 amps can't be right, that's almost a full circuit in your home (15 amps), its just a little fridge. Also the car is charging that battery as it's being used so the draw is likely very minimal i would think.
mine is an old model Dometic and is 3 way, 12V LP or 120V. Mine the vents and pilot light are traffic side, probably why they blow out so often! I"m gonna try the 12V mode this weekend when i go camping, should be 3-4 hour drive. I have gold AAA coverage in the event it kills my car battery so i'm not worried.
10-12 amps is correct at 12 volts. Many car/trailer wiring systems can't keep up. If your trailer battery stays at 12.6 volts or more with car running and fridge on, you're keeping up. If not, try running 2 hours on, 2 hours off.
There is a conversion of sorts between 120 volt AC plug in and 12v battery basically they are multipliers by 10. 12v =10 amps and 120v=1 amp. both supply 120 watts of heat and approximately correct amount and possibly 140 watts on some fridges. requiring 12 amps This is why it is so important to leave with a full house battery. Even if you have 10ga power and ground wires to your trailer plug you only get around 15 amps available before it is below the 13.2V needed to actually recharge the house battery, 12 volt is only a loosely designated reference number not useful for actually determining operation. On my diesel F250 truck I actually ran 8 ga wiring from the alternator back to the plug to help and still barely got 19-20 amps at 13.2. My new Subaru outback has 10ga and is minimum at best.
I put a Redarc BCDC1212T in the Scamp, and have a bit over 1000 miles on it now. Essentially it's a small DC/DC convertor between the tow vehicle's 12V and the trailer's 12V system mounted in the floor of the closet where the 7-way connector terminal block is.
14.5 volts output to the trailer system (lithium battery mode selected), 11 amps output max self limiting, 12 amp max input self limiting. With the current limits, fuses can't blow if the battery is severely discharged.
Functions as a battery isolator as well, turning off based on sensing the tow vehicles alternator voltage. It stops the current every so often for a few milliseconds to check the tow vehicle voltage without the influence of voltage drop in the wiring.
Been working well, especially since my tow vehicle has a variable voltage alternator where on a long hot drive the alternator is only putting out ~13.7 V. While driving, the fridge gets ~10 A, the battery gets (up to) ~1 A, and the factory trailer tow wiring looks like it's 14 gauge.
and here.
awesome thanks!
1987 Scamp 16
I have only tried twice to run on LP traveling and both times it was out at the next rest stop. We too run on the 12v but that requires a lot of amps 10-12 to do a good job so fully charged house battery before leaving is real important so that is not an additional draw. I hope to try some wind deflectors of sorts to protect the burner from gusts/wind. We met a couple that duct taped some of the vents to see but I do not know if that worked or not. and would need to be removed when stopped. I just removed and cleaned my entire burner assembly and cleaned it out. it was40% clogged with a bug web and was causing the flame to be yellowish. Now better. I also wired a single layer loose tube of aluminum window screen over the air intake side holes to minimize the chance of another web attack. It is not fun to work in such a tight space. also three different drivers necessary is nutz!! Torx, phillips, straight or 1/4 inch and 7/16 for the gas line. All fragile items too.
2019 Scamp 13 standard
yeah i just called scamp and they don't recommend traveling on propane, they said use 12V mode. i will do so in the future and make sure my battery is topped up.
10-12 amps can't be right, that's almost a full circuit in your home (15 amps), its just a little fridge. Also the car is charging that battery as it's being used so the draw is likely very minimal i would think.
1987 Scamp 16
... says 12 volt is for emergency use only. I run mine on gas when on the road, but it is on the curb side and stays lit.
Mine is duel power, LP and 120 VAC, I have tried 12 vdc via an inverter to get 120 VAC, it was a battery killer.
mine is an old model Dometic and is 3 way, 12V LP or 120V. Mine the vents and pilot light are traffic side, probably why they blow out so often! I"m gonna try the 12V mode this weekend when i go camping, should be 3-4 hour drive. I have gold AAA coverage in the event it kills my car battery so i'm not worried.
1987 Scamp 16
10-12 amps is correct at 12 volts. Many car/trailer wiring systems can't keep up. If your trailer battery stays at 12.6 volts or more with car running and fridge on, you're keeping up. If not, try running 2 hours on, 2 hours off.
There is a conversion of sorts between 120 volt AC plug in and 12v battery basically they are multipliers by 10. 12v =10 amps and 120v=1 amp. both supply 120 watts of heat and approximately correct amount and possibly 140 watts on some fridges. requiring 12 amps This is why it is so important to leave with a full house battery. Even if you have 10ga power and ground wires to your trailer plug you only get around 15 amps available before it is below the 13.2V needed to actually recharge the house battery, 12 volt is only a loosely designated reference number not useful for actually determining operation. On my diesel F250 truck I actually ran 8 ga wiring from the alternator back to the plug to help and still barely got 19-20 amps at 13.2. My new Subaru outback has 10ga and is minimum at best.
2019 Scamp 13 standard
I put a Redarc BCDC1212T in the Scamp, and have a bit over 1000 miles on it now. Essentially it's a small DC/DC convertor between the tow vehicle's 12V and the trailer's 12V system mounted in the floor of the closet where the 7-way connector terminal block is.
14.5 volts output to the trailer system (lithium battery mode selected), 11 amps output max self limiting, 12 amp max input self limiting. With the current limits, fuses can't blow if the battery is severely discharged.
Functions as a battery isolator as well, turning off based on sensing the tow vehicles alternator voltage. It stops the current every so often for a few milliseconds to check the tow vehicle voltage without the influence of voltage drop in the wiring.
Been working well, especially since my tow vehicle has a variable voltage alternator where on a long hot drive the alternator is only putting out ~13.7 V. While driving, the fridge gets ~10 A, the battery gets (up to) ~1 A, and the factory trailer tow wiring looks like it's 14 gauge.
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