I am at wits end trying to prepare my new Outback for the 13-foot we ordered. It took forever to get the 7-pin installed and after four months I still do not have a battery Isolator. I've purchased two different isolator but the dealer could make neither work.
The latest suggestion is to take the isolator off, wire direct and unplug at the campsite. Then hope for the best if the trailer battery runs low and puts a major draw on the car's systems.
Surely someone has set up a 2016 Outback for towing a Scamp. ( earlier Outbacks don't count - new electrical system).
If you know a dealer or mechanic who has the answer, please let me know. Thinking about spring and that new Scamp once was fun. Now I just get heartburn.
I've towed with vehicles where the charge was always hot and my current truck where it is only hot with ignition on. Never had a problem with either, unless with the hot type vehicle you leave the 7 Pin connected when camping or stopped for long periods. Not a huge deal either way, you just have to know which type of vehicle you have so you unplug if necessary. The battery condition on the trailer has never caused a problem with the tow vehicle for us when towing home.
I wouldn't over-worry it, you sound like you are pretty good to go at this point. Just get your trailer and go Scamping! That will also relieve heartburn.
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I have used both with and without an isolator too. No big deal! As long as both batteries are in good shape you should not have a problem. Unplug if your going to be parked for several days. For leveling your trailer and puttering around in your Outback you will be unhooked anyway.
I have not used a charge line before and only this month did I create one.
There is no easy way for me to install an isolator or relay on my tug so I am thinking very strongly about taking a different approach.
I always drive with my lights on when towing, so my thought is to install a relay in the Scamp that controls the charge line. This relay would only be on when the running lights are on. When relay is on, the Scamp gets power from the tug, and when it is off.. the charge line is not connected, The plan is to tap onto the the running lights on the Scamp to control the relay. This way, when the running lights are off (which is always the case when the tug is not running unless I override the light switch), then the charge line is disconnected.
The relay (isolator) and all the needed wiring is all in the Scamp.
I have not done this yet but it seems like a reasonable approach to the problem.
Gordon2 I think that would work. Good idea!
Instead of trying for a "Fancy" solution, simply install a battery disconnect switch in the charge circuit.
A good battery disconnect switch (like the one below) can easily handle all the amperage for your charge line and you can control it manually.
This Blue Sea switch is well built and easy to change from one position to the other.
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
A battery switch is fine too but also more complicated than needed.. If you really want to Keep is Simple (S), then all you have to do is unplug the umbilical cord to ensure your tug battery does not get discharged. But the isolator / relay is often suggested for people who might forgot the unplug or turn the switch and leave the charge line connected. If you think you will always remember to unplug then you need NO added hardware. If you think you might forget, and that one time you do is in the middle of nowhere where you really don't want to be stranded with a dead tow vehicle, then the relay / isolator is just a little insurance
PS, Happy Thanksgiving to all.
Just another manual option for disconnecting (your charging line) from your Tow Vehicle.
I did this from inside my closet next to the bathroom where all the wires come into the camper. I have a 13' Scamp with a full bathroom.
I picked off the incoming charging line (using #10 AWG wiring) and went to the switch and back to the charging line that goes to the fuse box.
When the switch is on (charging line is connected) the red key is lock-in.
When the switch is off the red key is removed (charging line is disconnected).
The reason for its location was to make it easy to know when its connected as well as using it.
i finally took my car to a local trailer dealer who (for $100) found that the dealer had the wires incorrectly connected. I have to wait until May when we pick up our 13-foot to see if either of them were correct.
Clyde & Cecile Bentley - C2B2
If you don't want to wait till your pick-up day, here is a 7-pin trailer connector test plug that will allow you to test all functions.
I have one and it helped me with my wiring issue.
As Always,
Happy Scamping !!!
I got this from Rick on another forum...
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