We are shopping for an ultra small, light weight trailer that we can tow behind a Subaru Forester, with a 2400 pound tow limit. We are looking at the 13 foot Scamp. Scamp is the most promising trailer that I have found, but I have some questions.
1. What brand converter is in the Scamp? If it is a multi-stage like a Progressive Dynamics or IOTA, that is good. If it is a single stage piece of junk like a Parallax or Magnatek, I will not be happy.
2. Can you get both an air conditioner and a roof fan, or must you pick one or the other? This is not decisive, but if only one is possible, we need to think about it.
3. The tube on the front of the Scamp to hold the sewer hose holds a 10 foot hose, Can we get a longer tube that will hold a 15 foot RhinoFlex?
4. If we get an outside GFCI outlet, is it exposed to the elements, or is it behind a weatherproof door?
5. Can we get the factory to install both a water heater bypass kit, and a winterizing kit before the water pump, so we don't have to put RV antifreeze in either the fresh water tank or the water heater?
5b. This is related to question 5. Is the rear of the water heater accessible for me to install and/or utilize a water heater bypass?
That is all I can think of for now. I am sure that I will think of others later.
The major hindrance for us in considering a Scamp is that we have never been able to actually look at one. We have seen them in campgrounds, but have never set foot in one. I am hoping that Scamp and/or forum users will find a way for us to actually look at a Scamp. One thing we won't do is buy one without ever setting foot in one. We live in the Memphis, TN area if anyone is close and feels like volunteering a tour.
EDITED TO INSERT SIZE OF SCAMP WE ARE CONSIDERING.
OK, here we go. Yes, you can get a AC and a Fantastic Fan too, we have such. The outside AC plug does have a weather proof cover, no worries. We replaced our converter due to it failing. It is nothing more than what they put in pop ups. We put a multi stage converter with cooling fan, new breakers, and lights that illuminate when a fuse blows. It was only $159.00 plus installation. I put a 15 ft. Rino Flex hose in the provided tube up front on the Scamp. We live in St. Charles MO, just west of St. Louis. June 11 we will be in Eureka Spring AR for vacation. I am not sure about the bypass for winterization, but the guys at Camping World told me it would be equal to the cost of antifreeze. Camping World is going to do the job. We were told it would be equal to the cost of antifeeze to do the job.They are going to install if for us. We are also getting a sink installed in the Scamp and a electric tongue jack, which both I highly reccomend.
<p>Doug Allen 2016 Ford F-150 2018 Lance 1575</p>
I should have stipulated that we are looking at the 13 foot Scamp, if that makes any difference.
All of those are the right answers >G< Or, at least good enough. I can install what I want upgraded.
I understand about the multistage converter. I replaced the converter in my 32 foot Class C simply because I wanted a better converter. I did the work myself, saving a little money. If necessary, that will be the second thing I do on buying a Scamp. The first thing will be putting in the water heater bypass and winterizing kits.
Currently a 32 foot Winnebago Class C
2010 Subaru Forester
2 fur kids
Yes, we are too getting the winterization kit installed at Campin World. I am not handy and must have things done for me for certain things. They too installed the power converter, electrical is not my thing. It was not that expensive to have them do it. The 13 can get most or all of the options a 16 has. Just depends on what you wish to spend. For us, lots of options was the way to go, as we enjoy them. Living with a Scamp with lots of options makes your times out so much more enjoyable.
<p>Doug Allen 2016 Ford F-150 2018 Lance 1575</p>
We have done enough camping to know to get everything you can up front. Saves time and money later. We are planning to keep the Scamp long term. My wife has retired, and I am retiring in about 6 months. We plan to travel A LOT. We must scrimp on weight, but not on the cost, within reason.
Currently a 32 foot Winnebago Class C
2010 Subaru Forester
2 fur kids
Me,I am a retired pilot and my wife retires in 3 years. When she does, we are heading west for a very long trip, as many great sites to see out there. Good idea to get lots of options. I especially enjoy the AC, the extra reading lights, the 12 volt charge socket, the screen door, the Fantastic Fan, and of course, the shower/potty. At the factory I had a new Fiama F45 awning installed, and I think this is all they install now. I highly recommend such. Getting out of the Scamp is the thing to do. A awning provides great shade and comfort. A group 27 battery too is a great idea. I welded on bike rack hitch is not a bad idea, even if you do not take bikes. It holds a nice platform to hold coolers, generators, containers.
<p>Doug Allen 2016 Ford F-150 2018 Lance 1575</p>
Bobbo
Scamp is now installing Progressive Dynamics PD 9130 converters. You will need to buy a $25 Charge Wizard pendant to make it a smart converter. A lot of people choose not to have the sewer tube on front of the trailer since it will yellow with age and they use 4 rivets to install it to the shell. It also interferes with other things you may want to mount on the tongue. A 5" square PVC fence post mounted under the trailer next to the grey water drain is a nice DIY option. The fence post will hold your hose and the cone. I think Scamp may be installing a WH bypass you need to call on that. Using the the old Scamp winterizing procedures there is no need for a WH bypass. A pump antifreeze pick up 3 way valve is another great DIY project. If you plan to install a solar panel on the roof you may want not to get a TV antenna. The real estate on top of a S-13 is real valuable.
Good luck with your trailer.
Eddie
The PD9130 is my first choice. I installed a PD4655 in my 32 foot Class C and love it. I definitely will get the charge wizard!
Good idea on the sewer hose storage area. I am handy, so installing one underneath won't be a problem. I really don' t like the look of the one on the front anyway.
We have no intentions of a tv antenna, or a cable inlet for that matter. We don't do tv when camping. If we have bad weather and and can't get out, DVDs in a laptop do just fine.
If Scamp can't, or won't, install the water heater bypass and winterizing kit, I can also do that myself. I installed a 2 gallon accumulator tank in my Class C. I wish there was room in the 13 foot Scamp for one, but doubt it will fit. Of course, I have not yet actually seen inside of a Scamp.
I sat down today and planned out what I wanted in a Scamp 13 footer. It is easier to list the options that I WON'T get. I won't get:
1. range hood (the overhead fan will work fine)
2. tv antenna/cable inlet
3. rear receiver
4. stove backsplash
5. bathroom sink (2 sinks about 8 feet apart seems senseless)
6. propane gauge
7. roof air heat strip
Literally everything else on the sheet is going to be included.
Currently a 32 foot Winnebago Class C
2010 Subaru Forester
2 fur kids
I have thought of another question:
6. Does the air conditioner have a delay built in so it won't try to restart with high head pressure in the case of a short power outage? I am going to install a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C and need to know what time delay to set it for. I have an EMS-HW30C that I installed in my Class C, and it has saved us some damage from low power issues in the past.
Currently a 32 foot Winnebago Class C
2010 Subaru Forester
2 fur kids
I installed the same Progressive Industries device and I was not able to find out from docs if the AC had a built in delay or not. It seems that many or most RV AC units do have a delay now days but without calling Domitic I could not be sure (and I would not trust their answer anyway based on conversation I had with them about their fridge vents). So I just set the EMS-HW30C on the longer delay - better safe than sorry. Sometimes its a little annoying waiting for it to kick on but I can live with it.
BTW, you will likely detect some hum when its very quiet and the unit is energized. Its under my bed where my head is, and at night I can hear it. I made a little effort to dampen the hum but it remains. I could make more of an effort and spend more money on good isolation mounts, but it's not that big a deal.
Sorry I can't answer the A/C question. I think you will need to go to the A/C mfg. to get that answer, or go on line and research the info for yourself. Your delete list looks good. If you delete the range vent I think a window over the range is an option. Are you getting a Std. or DX? If getting a Std. are you going with the big bed?
Eddie
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